اللمسات الاخيرة في انجاز الطبعة الفوتوغرافية ..كتاب طبع وتحميض الصور الفوتوغرافية

Chapter VII

Final touches in completing the photographic edition
Many photographers, especially amateurs, hang their prominent paintings around their homes after placing them in the appropriate frame. In this chapter, we will talk about the method that must be followed to preserve the paintings for the longest possible period of damage. We will also be exposed to different methods of displaying paintings.

Edition wash:

It is one of the vital things that the hobbyist does not pay due attention to despite its importance. A board that is not well washed from the fixer residue will turn yellow after a while. For this reason, the print must be thoroughly washed with water after its installation is complete, by placing it in a sink after closing the water drain at its bottom and opening the water to the prints for a period of not less than half an hour, in such a way that the water that washes the prints remains constantly clean.

It is preferable to use the Hypo neutralizer when washing the prints in order to completely ensure that any traces of the fixative are removed and in order to reduce the time required for washing them. And the way to use it is to dip the print in a hypo-neutral solution for a minute or two, then wash it with plain water for only 10 minutes, and this saves time and water, in addition to that we

We guarantee that your prints will be completely rid of any traces of the installer. Notably, there is no need to use a special dish for the hypo-neutral. Wash any dish and then fill it with the hypo-neutral solution.

Edition drying:

The print must be taken with the necessary care when drying it so that its surface does not wrinkle in a way that makes it difficult to return it to the original position. The most easy type of paper to dry is RC paper. Take the paper out of the water and shake it slightly to remove excess water from it, then leave it on the table for some time, so it dries on its own quickly and without the need to use special equipment for that, as is the case with other types of paper, where an electric print towel is used in Dry it and sometimes use a paper dryer for this purpose. The electric print towel consists of two metal plates or one plate resembling a drum, between which an electric heater is installed, the temperature of which is controlled by means of a special switch. The two plates are covered with a cover of muslin (thin layered tissue), blotting paper is cheaper. The electric towel, but the prints in it take longer to dry than if we were using the electric towel. That is why it is preferable to use the latter in drying editions, and it is easy to use. from

Take several prints after removing them from the washing dish and shake them slightly to get rid of excess water on them. Then line it up on the metal plate so that the face of the print is upwards, then lower the cloth cover over it. Put as many more layers as the plate can accommodate on the second plate, slide the lid over it, then turn on the heater.

Place the prints face up on the towel

Close the plate with its cloth cover.
These towels produce semi-glossy prints if you use glossy paper, and non-glossy (dry) prints if you use dry paper.

Make prints brighter:

The prints can be made more glossy by using the aforementioned prints towel, by placing the print while it is wet with its face down instead of up, then a roller is passed over it to get rid of the excess water and to securely stick it to the surface of the metal plate. Then the cloth cover is lowered over it and it is turned on. Thus, the prints will dry and at the same time become more shiny. However, the author of the book seems to follow a more advanced method for doing this, although in my opinion it does not differ much in terms of the result from the method described here. In general, and for the sake of honesty in the translation, I mentioned the author’s method as it came in the original book, with the aim of informing the reader about it.

After drying, the RC glossy paper prints automatically become more glossy. However, obtaining the same result when using the rest of the species requires resorting to special means. The best of these means is the Ferrotype plate, which is a thin metal plate of steel, one of which has been coated with high-gloss chrome.

Washed prints are dipped in a Flattening Solution to keep prints dry

Edition as simple as possible. The method of diluting the solution with water and the time required for immersing the prints in it varies according to the type of liquid used, so read the instructions for use attached to it before using it. The method of working with this solution is divided into several steps: 1 - Hold the Ferrotype plate by its edges and place it in the sink, then rub the side

Wash the ferrotype plate with your hands dampened in soapy water
Shine with soap and water. Do not use any detergents, so it may harm the face

chrome.

When the washing is finished, put it wet on the table in front of you. 2- Take the printout out of the leveling solution, then place it face-down directly over the glossy side of the dish. Do not wash the print after removing it from the leveling solution. Stick the print well to the face of the plate by passing a rubber roller over the back of the print. And remove excess water with a towel. Start rolling the print, starting from the center to the edges, pressing it well. Paste over it a number of prints as much as possible. with

Insert the wet print over the plate to stick it well.

When you hear beeps 4 - Put it on top of the print reducer and then turn it on. Do not be alarmed by the crackling during the drying of the impressions, as these are its sounds as it gradually separates from the surface of the plate.