تقييم الطبعة .. كتاب طبع وتحميض الصور الفوتوغرافية

Place the print in the installer and leave it for a sufficient period of time.

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It often happens that the photographer is not satisfied with the result of the final print that he made, so he reprints it again in order to get a better result, which is not strange. It may happen that the first print is too light or too dark, or perhaps too thin or too heavy. Contrast, and so the photographer finds himself compelled to reprint, so do not be upset if that happens to you! If the print has good contrast but is overexposed or underexposed, fix this error on the second print by adjusting the exposure time or aperture of the enlarger lens. For example, if the print appears to you to be “a little pale,” display the second print for an additional 5 or 10 seconds. And if you are satisfied with expanding the aperture by one stop, you will get the same previous result, as if you had doubled the exposure time. Sometimes an edition can look bad no matter how hard you try to improve it. This happens when the negative is thinner or thicker than normal, assuming that all of your negatives are of normal contrast and that you are using No. 2 paper. If the negative is of unusual density, this means that it is thin, and this results either from a short exposure period when taking the picture, or due to insufficient exposure of the negative. This defect in the negative can be fixed by printing the shot on high contrast paper such as No. 3 or 4. As for paper 5 and 6, it is used for excessively thin shots. If the negative is very present, this is due to an increase in its exposure during photography or an increase in the endorsement period. Printing such a negative results in the loss of gray values, and to partially compensate for that, it must be printed on No. 1 paper. The use of different grades of paper is not limited to correcting negative errors, but A negative impression is also used to obtain negatives with unusual characteristics. For example, when. Normal density or thick on No. 6 paper we get a pleasant print almost free of gray and this effect is desired by some photographers from time to time for example

renewal. Finally, it is not necessary for you to buy a box of each grade of paper, because there is only a small difference between the close grades of paper, and the typical grades that you will need more than others are No. 2, 3, and 5.

Cropping

There are some technical operations that are carried out on the weak negative during printing in order to improve its level. The most important of these operations are sectioning, shading and central burning. Before we talk about cropping, remember that a good content clip is one that does not need to cut parts of it. As for the snapshot that we have to do with it, it contains undesirable elements, elements that we could not get rid of while composing the snapshot in the viewfinder of the camera due to circumstances beyond our control.

In addition, the subtraction leads to an increase in the clarity of the grains in the snapshot and to a decrease in the contrast in it because of our need to compensate for the cut off part by increasing the enlargement of the snapshot in order to return the size of the print to its normal size.

Therefore, it does not resort to parting except for two reasons: 1- The measurement of negativity may be slightly different from the measurement of the paper used for printing. Trim the edges of the shot to fit the size of the printing paper. 2- Resorting to clipping, as we said previously, in order to get rid of things that distract attention in the shot from its main objective, and that entered the frame of the shot against our will, such as an electrical tape whose tip appeared hanging at the top of the shot in a harmful way.

Dodging and burning in They are two methods to improve the level of the shot, but also do not resort to them except when Absolute necessity because of the difficulty of achieving them perfectly, especially for the hobbyist. If a small part of the shot looks too straight, its darkness can be reduced with a technique

vignetting

To shade a small part of the print, a small piece of cardboard of the shape and size of the part to be shaded attached to a thin wire tip is used. Hold this tool in such a way that the piece of cardboard is above the part whose density you want to reduce by shading it. And gently move it over it during the entire exposure of the print. Don't forget to keep moving so the silhouette of the wire doesn't appear on the print. Use a small aperture during shading because it prolongs the period of exposure of the print to light, which ensures more accurate shading process.

- Reduction is used to increase the intensity of a small part of the print by reducing its exposure, and for that a piece of cotton was used here with a thin plastic stand.

After the end of the exposure period, the print has obtained the necessary time to expose it, while the shaded part gets an exposure that is somewhat less than the exposure of the entire print, which leads to lightening the darkness of that part. In contrast to vignetting, central burning is the increase in exposure time for part of the shot

Underexposure. A hole in the part to be burned in a piece of cardboard. Then view the full edition Make-to-Size

Central burn is a technique resorted to by overexposing part of the shot without the rest. A perforated piece of cardboard is used for this.
Normally, now hold the piece of cardboard over the print in such a way that part of the magnifier light passes from the hole in the carton to the part that you want to burn without the rest of the print parts. Display it for an additional period of time, and do not forget to continue shaking the carton gently during the additional exposure period so that the edges of the hole do not appear on the printing paper.