التعامل مع ورق الطبع .. كتاب فن التصوير الفوتوغرافي

Dealing with printing paper

However, the endorsement process for sensitive paper is similar to the endorsement process for film. You can see the endorsement process in sensitive paper while it is happening, but you should not neglect to control the time and temperature well. At 20°C, the paper exposed to the light fully appears in about two minutes. Remember that any difference in exposure, whether it's too much or too little, will result in a far from perfect result

that you seek.

Slide the print onto the theme in one go and keep it moving over it by moving it back and forth with tweezers. If you do not do this, air bubbles can form on the print page, blocking the full endorsement. Shake the endorsement plate if the print is large in size, causing waves over the emulsion layer.

After the lapse of two minutes, place the impression in the stand-off bath (or wash it with an intermediate bath of water, then place it in the fixer, and then in the final wash bath. Remember to move the liquids over the surface of the impression as well. After completing these operations, the print is ready. Examine it in normal light and do not judge On it under a safety light in a dark room, the print is very different in normal light than it does under a safety light

Now the final step remains, which is drying. After washing the print well with water, place it on a newspaper page, with the emulsion layer facing up. Dry the emulsion layer with a print roller, as it is good for absorbing the water points suspended on the surface of the emulsion.

Hobbyists, when they advance in the field of printing, prefer to purchase an electric photo dryer to give their output a professional touch. Place the prints in a dryer

The pictures are on its glazed surface, face down, then pressed to the glaze surface with a special sheet of canvas to absorb excess water and keep the layers flat during drying.

Negative Partitions and Other Codifications:

It is not always necessary to enlarge the entire negative, as you will often need to print only parts of it without other parts, because a snapshot contains details that you wish during the printing stage had not been present in the negative. At this stage, you can easily delete the unwanted parts if you follow the following notes: 1- Print the entire area of ​​the negative on a sheet of paper measuring 25 x 20 cm, then back

Tire of any size you see, fix and wash in the normal way. 2- Cut two pieces of cardboard in the shape of the letter “L” to make them a moving frame for your print. Being mobile, you can make a suitable line. Cut out the part you want from the picture and frame it, then draw.

around it with the help of the frame. - Reprint the selected part of the image after enlarging it to the size you want, guided by the guiding lines that you drew around the selected part of the original print.

You may notice during your study of the contents of an image that it contains one or more sites with some defects that would have been exposed to intense lighting to the point where the details disappeared. In this case, you cannot expose the entire image to additional lighting in order to bring out the details in the intended place. Because in this case you will get a total black edition. Also, you cannot reduce the amount of lighting required in the event that parts of the image are extremely black, because this will spoil the entire image.

Fortunately, you can adjust the exposure of certain areas of the image without affecting other areas, using a method known as burning and dodging.

To burn a spot from the image, you need a piece of cardboard with a hole equal in shape to the area to be burned. Make the normal exposure for the photo and place the piece of cardboard between the magnifying glass and the copy paper. Light the magnifier lamp again, allowing the light to pass through the hole that you made just above the area to be burned. Keep the piece of cardboard in constant motion during the burning process so that the edges of the hole don't show through on the final print

You can use your hands instead of a piece of cardboard, but in this case you have to try what you will do under the light of the magnifier without a printing paper until you get used to covering all parts of the image except for the part that you want to burn, then you do the burning process after that and the shading is the opposite of burning, because you have to prevent Light from passing through a specific area of ​​the image and not others. To do this, cut a piece of cardboard the same size as the area to be shaded, attach this part to the end of a thin metal wire, then hold it between the light of the magnifying glass and the printing paper. Move the wire slightly so that its edges and the edges of the piece of paper are not visible in the final print.

You may notice on the print after it has been printed and dried that some grains of dust that you did not notice have appeared in the form of small white dots. You can get rid of these annoying points by using Spotting Fluid, which is a liquid that can be purchased cheaply from photographic equipment stores. The stain liquid is black before use, and when it is used, a few drops of it are diluted with water until you get a gray color similar to the gray color on which the stains appear in the print. Try the result on a test copy first to see the consistency of the color of the mixture used with the surrounding medium. The experiment is by using a precise brush and gentle pats over the spots concerned. Of course, you have to make several attempts before you excel in covering the stains with complete success. But after getting used to it, you will feel proud because of your error-free photos. Finally, there are some errors that you may make while printing the paper. We will include them with their reasons in order to avoid their occurrence:

Error Reason Duration (Too contrast) Underexposure and over exposure or Paper grade is too hard Too hard The appearance is too worn or attenuated Or Paper grade is too soft 100 soft Or The exposure or endorsement process was interrupted before it was completed Faded image Insufficient fixation or over exposure Incomplete endorsement Gray haze Unsafe safety light Endorsement too long or old paper (finished) Dots and smudges The emulsion of the transfer paper was smelt with a fixer before printing Or air bubbles formed on the surface of the paper when placed in the developer due to non-moving or dust stuck on the film or on a carrier glass Film Black dots and smudges The emulsion of the transfer paper splattered in appearance before printing Finger marks during endorsement or chemical particles of endorsement not well dissolved Spots and smudges of different sizes The print was not livened directly and completely with the appearance during endorsement or the endorsement process was interrupted before it was completed Small pustules on the surface of the emulsion fixed Too concentrated or Large temperature difference between the materials used or

What is meant by exposure and endorsement here is the printing paper, not the film.