تويت
السلبيات الملونة - ٢ - المعالجة .. كيفية التقاط وتطوير الصور الملونة
COLOUR NEGATIVES
After the developer , add the bleach . The temperature is less critical for this solution , but the film must still be in complete darkness . After the bleach , the other steps can be done in normal room lighting , but as you will still need to agitate the tank , it is usually more convenient to keep the lid on the tank . However , if you are eager to check the results , you can examine a few frames of the film about halfway into the fixing step .
After the final wash and stabilizer , attach a film clip to the end of the film , draw the entire length of film out from the reel , and hang it up to dry ( a clothes line is convenient ) . Weight the bottom end of the film with a second clip and draw a squeegee or soft sponge , dipped in wetting agent , down the film from top to bottom . This action avoids spots and drying marks . Dry for at least 20 minutes in a dust - free room .
3 Re - check the developer temperature and pour it quickly into the tank . Tap the tank lightly to disperse any air bubbles and fit the cap that covers the hole in the lid .
4 Start the time ( preset for development time ) . For 15 seconds in every minute of development agitate the tank by rocking it backwards and forwards . This will ensure that the developer acts on all the film .
5 Quickly pour out the developer at the end of development time and pour in the stop bath . Agitate continuously for 30 seconds . Pour out the stop bath and refill the tank with fixer .
6 At the end of the time recommended by the manufacturer , pour out the fixer . Attach the filtered hose to a cold tap , the other end to the core of the reel , and wash for at least 30 minutes in gently running water . Strong water pressure may damage the film .
7 Add a few drops of wetting agent ( to avoid drying streaks ) before removing the reel . Unreel the film , attach it to a drying clip and use the squeegee tongs to remove excess moisture . Hang up to dry in a dust- and draught - free area .
Washing and Drying
Scratches occur if the film is wiped too vigorously . Use squeegee gently
Dirt becomes embedded because drying air is dusty . Use a clean room or drying cabinet
Drying marks result from large drops of water on emulsion . Always wipe them
Too much water pressure can damage emulsion . Set tap for gentle flow
Wash sufficiently See film / chemical instructions
1 An example of underdeveloped film ; the image is too dark . On a negative , it would appear to be too pale
BELOW It is of course easier to spot problems on the negative after development with large format cameras than with 35mm . The contrast on this negative looks excellent .
2 An example of overdeveloped film ; the same pale image can be caused by overexposure when taking the shot . The film speed may have been too slow .
3 Gross underexposure ; the transparency would appear to be almost black , the negative almost transparent . This is probably caused by a faulty shutter rather than any error on the photographer's part .
4 Unexposed film ; the negative would be transparent and the transparency black . The film may not have been through the camera if the film tongue was not attached securely to spool . Or perhaps a very high shutter speed was used with flash .
COLOUR NEGATIVES
After the developer , add the bleach . The temperature is less critical for this solution , but the film must still be in complete darkness . After the bleach , the other steps can be done in normal room lighting , but as you will still need to agitate the tank , it is usually more convenient to keep the lid on the tank . However , if you are eager to check the results , you can examine a few frames of the film about halfway into the fixing step .
After the final wash and stabilizer , attach a film clip to the end of the film , draw the entire length of film out from the reel , and hang it up to dry ( a clothes line is convenient ) . Weight the bottom end of the film with a second clip and draw a squeegee or soft sponge , dipped in wetting agent , down the film from top to bottom . This action avoids spots and drying marks . Dry for at least 20 minutes in a dust - free room .
3 Re - check the developer temperature and pour it quickly into the tank . Tap the tank lightly to disperse any air bubbles and fit the cap that covers the hole in the lid .
4 Start the time ( preset for development time ) . For 15 seconds in every minute of development agitate the tank by rocking it backwards and forwards . This will ensure that the developer acts on all the film .
5 Quickly pour out the developer at the end of development time and pour in the stop bath . Agitate continuously for 30 seconds . Pour out the stop bath and refill the tank with fixer .
6 At the end of the time recommended by the manufacturer , pour out the fixer . Attach the filtered hose to a cold tap , the other end to the core of the reel , and wash for at least 30 minutes in gently running water . Strong water pressure may damage the film .
7 Add a few drops of wetting agent ( to avoid drying streaks ) before removing the reel . Unreel the film , attach it to a drying clip and use the squeegee tongs to remove excess moisture . Hang up to dry in a dust- and draught - free area .
Washing and Drying
Scratches occur if the film is wiped too vigorously . Use squeegee gently
Dirt becomes embedded because drying air is dusty . Use a clean room or drying cabinet
Drying marks result from large drops of water on emulsion . Always wipe them
Too much water pressure can damage emulsion . Set tap for gentle flow
Wash sufficiently See film / chemical instructions
1 An example of underdeveloped film ; the image is too dark . On a negative , it would appear to be too pale
BELOW It is of course easier to spot problems on the negative after development with large format cameras than with 35mm . The contrast on this negative looks excellent .
2 An example of overdeveloped film ; the same pale image can be caused by overexposure when taking the shot . The film speed may have been too slow .
3 Gross underexposure ; the transparency would appear to be almost black , the negative almost transparent . This is probably caused by a faulty shutter rather than any error on the photographer's part .
4 Unexposed film ; the negative would be transparent and the transparency black . The film may not have been through the camera if the film tongue was not attached securely to spool . Or perhaps a very high shutter speed was used with flash .
تعليق