فن التصوير .. المباديء والمنهاج -١٩- تظهيرأفلام الابيض والاسود -۱-

**Ali Abbass** · 05-11-2023, 01:15 PM

art of photography . . Principles and Curriculum Lesson Nineteen / endorsement of black and white films -1-

Chemical bases and compounds

Endorsement is the chemical process that transforms the latent image within an exposed film into a fixed and permanent image on the negative.
And while the end goal is always to get a good negative, you can only do that after getting a good negative first.
Considering that we have passed this stage in the previous two lessons on the proper exposure of the negative
We must train here on the next stage, which is the film properly, even for those who do not have a black room. Our lesson - which we will present in several episodes - will be limited to black and white endorsement, which is very necessary even for those who shoot in color only, and it is a first step that precedes the discussion. About colored endorsement, which we will talk about in later lessons.

First steps
Endorsement includes several simple steps: First, you dip your exposed film in a chemical solution called developer (*). This optionally works on the film, converting the silver halide crystals that have been affected by the light into metallic silver black - it does not turn those crystals that have not been exposed to the light - you leave the film in the endorsement bath until enough of the photoexposed crystals have happened to turn into silver..
Then you have to stop the process that the finisher is doing, because if you leave the film affected by it beyond that, your negatives will become too light contrast to be useful for a good print. So ! And according to the methods that we will present to you in this lesson, you will remove the film from the endorsement at the appropriate moment and put it in the endowment bath (*), which immediately stops the endorsement process. You can also pass it under running water before moving to the fixation stage.

If you look at the film at this point, you will see a negative. But still on the movie
Crystals are not exposed to light, so if the light flashes, they will be exposed to light. The image is thus corrupted, from here you have to remove the unexposed crystals until you get a permanent negative.

You do this by transferring the film from the suspension bath to the fixation bath (*), which is known by the expression hypo (hypo), and it dissolves the silver crystals that are not exposed to light, so that they remain like this with a negative of a metallic silver-black image in the locations where the light affected the film. You can turn on the light and look at Negativity after the fixation period.
In the end, you must wash the film to remove all the chemical compounds, and dip the film in water. Moistening to help achieve a quick drying free of traces of wiping, then hanging the film to dry - drying -. These steps are simple and require simple equipment without much skill. However, it really needs great care and attention to detail and cleanliness.
So we'll show you how to make a movie with minimal equipment. The basic method of film endorsement is called the method of time and temperature (*). He does not need a dark room.

Time and temperature method
Before starting a detailed presentation of the method - time and temperature, which is concerned with the endorsement of the film, let us touch on a short summary of the steps in order to give you a general idea of the whole process.
Begin by mounting your scanned film into a tub
Endorsement (Tank) This is the only step that requires complete darkness. It can be done inside a closet, attic, or any dark room in your apartment or apartment. Once the film is installed on the reel in the tank, put the anti-light cover on the tank, turn on the light, then Start the following chemical processes under normal room light.

1- Pour the endorsement bath into the tub through the light-proof hole. It should be endorsed in the basin through the hole that is resistant to light leakage. The appearance temperature should be equivalent to that specified by the producing company - from 68 to 70.
2- The film appeared in this bathroom for a specific period of time, and according to the instructions of the producing company again - usually from 3 to 10 minutes.
3- Pour the endorsement bath out of the basin.
4- Pour the waqf bath or water into the basin.
E - After 30 seconds, pour the waqf bath out of the basin.
6- Pour the stabilizer into the tub.
7- After the end of the installation period specified by the producing company, the stabilizer should be poured out of the basin.
8- Wash off the film.
9- Dry it.
Now you have a finished negative.
It should be clear to you why this is called the time and temperature method.
But if you are working with a different film - 120 film for example - then the methods and equipment are similar, except that you will remove the paper backing from the film, and use a roller designed to handle 120 film, and you will pour larger amounts of each bath to cover the film.

Equipment you need
You have to secure the equipment you need to endorse the film without having to buy a lot from the local photographic store that you deal with for a small amount.

1 - Endorsement tub in daylight, it is a plastic or metal tub with a capacity of up to ten films.
a) - the body of the pelvis that accommodates chemical compounds.
b) A reel - or reels - on which to wrap your film.
c) - Protective cover from light leakage.

2 - Darkroom Timer Need an accurate timer, get one with a large, easy-to-read dial - or use your watch.
3- Gallons or bottles, which need different chemical compounds, and since these chemical compounds are affected by long exposure to light, the bottles must be made of glass or black plastic.
The bottles you buy should also be of a quart capacity - about one liter - and with a wide mouth for easy pouring, and since plastic bottles seem to allow more oxidation than glass artists do, you might be well advised to use a glass bottle. For appearance, but if you want a larger amount of crops, you should use gallons of approximately 4 liters.
4- A thermometer. Since the time and temperature method is based on an accurate temperature measurement, we recommend that you get a good dark room thermometer of the type
Metal .
E - graduated container. You should get a graduated mixing bowl of a quart capacity - approximately one liter - with measuring lines for liquids in ounces - an ounce is approximately 30 grams -. There are basins included in plastic, metal or glass, avoid measuring cups made of aluminum.
6- Film tweezers, you use these tweezers to hang your film until it dries. Buy at least two of them, and four to six are better. Laundry tongs with flaps are also good.
7- Wetting agent. Kodak Photoflo Solution is a wetting agent that helps dry quickly and wipe-free.
8- The Viscose Sponge, designed for photographic uses, is better than the commonly used sponges used in kitchens.
9 - scissors. Any household scissors will work.
10- Envelopes you use to store your finished 35mm negatives with four to six frame strips.
You will also need a bottle opener or "Kodak Cartridge Opener" to remove your film from the 35mm cartridge.

- Choose an endorsement basin
There are several types of endorsement basins commonly used, and here are the most common of them: Stainless steel: - Nikkor - Brockie, Hannibal - Although they cost more than other types, they offer advantages that far exceed the small increase in the basic cost. They are easy to clean. Long life - it should remain valid at all times as long as it is handled with reasonable care - and its structure ensures an easy flow of chemicals during stirring. And depending on the scale, you are able to put up to eight rolls of film together, then they can be wiped dry in a few seconds to return to use immediately.

- Plastic - Patterson
Ansco, Kodak - There are two main types of plastic tubs: those that use a reel that can be adjusted to accommodate films from 35 mm to 1/4 2 wide, and those that use a plastic sheet with grooved edges that wraps around the film and is inserted into the tub.
These grooved edges allow the chemical compounds to reach all parts of the film, although plastic tubs have some limits. While we find some models of basins

Most models limit the amount of film that can be developed in one go to two rolls of 35 mm, or one roll of 120, more than this, and since the rollers have hard-to-reach grooves for easy drying practice - the least amount of Moisture in any groove will cause the film to tangle - the immediate return of use to a rod or handle - long - to turn the film, often causes the appearance quickly until the appearance moves around smudges on the film when this work is done without care.

We point out here that plastic products, and reels in particular, are prone to wrinkling if exposed to heat for a long time. It is also necessary to inspect the pulleys whenever they are used, in order to make sure that they do not move away from their previously set positions. You will actually be confused when you start installing the film on the reel, only to discover that it has come close and will not accommodate the film, or that it has moved away so that the film will not enter the grooves after they have become too far apart from each other. What we recommend is one of the plastic basins, and the best is stainless steel basins equipped to accommodate my 35 mm 120 films, since the 35 mm and 120 reels are similar in diameter, and they will all fit in the same basin in order to enable you to achieve economy and flexibility.

**Ali Abbass** · 05-11-2023, 01:17 PM

Chemical compounds for endorsement
All of these chemical compounds are available in canned form or in bottles:
1- Appearance: You can get a powdery appearance.

The powder is dissolved in water according to the instructions of the producing company, or in liquid form - dilute the appearance according to the instructions - and there are dozens of different appearances in the market, some of which are for general use and others for special effects.
If you go to your photography store and try to pick a theme from the many different types on the shelves. You may find yourself very confused. There are dozens of different beautiful lighting and micro-rasterization themes, all of which promise good contrast and color gradation, and top speed. From here, the choice is confusing. But don't be confused, because you can't
Almost all wrong, almost all very good.
However, with all these looks, we recommend that you choose one that is for all purposes. If you look at the instruction sheet that came with your film, there are recommendations for specific looks. But know that filmmakers usually only recommend their own. We should note that there are other good products on the market. The Kodak (D p76) or Ilford 11-ID are good all-purpose choices. They are great for Plus, Tri-X and Lupatomic films. x) and other black and white films, the normal endorsement period is about 7 minutes, that is, long enough that minor errors will not expose your photos to damage, yet short enough to be suitable, the appearance of the Ford (11 - ID) is exactly the same as (76-D).
The appearances are also available in the form concerned for single use, and then they are disposed of in this regard. Or with types that can be recycled and reused. With the correct completion “filling in the deficiency resulting from a previous use”, you can use the appearance over and over again without a noticeable effect on the photographic quality. Typically, the appearance that is reused has a complementary product. Thus, ( 76 - ) has ( D - 76 R ) - the letter R is the first of the Replenisher i.e. the complement that fills in the deficiency in it.
However, the appearance and supplement are usually sold separately. You mix an amount of each of them, and keep them in separate bottles, then for each film language you show, you add a certain amount of supplement as recommended by the producing company - usually half an ounce or about 30 grams -. It should be noted that the supplement replaces chemical compounds that have been consumed, thus maintaining the effectiveness of the appearance constant. However, the complement process cannot continue indefinitely.
The producing company will suggest a limit when the size of the frame becomes equal to the size of the original appearance usually. For our part, we invite you to take a safety stance, so we recommend that you get rid of the used appearance when the volume of the necessary supplement becomes a quarter of the price of a film language that appears badly.
2- Stop Bath: it is sufficient to buy a bottle of Kodak called (Indicator Stop Bath). And since you use a small amount each time, a small bottle may last you for years.

3- Fixation bath You can buy Hypo cans or bottles with or without mixes, according to the instructions of the producing company.
To develop a film, we recommend that you get a quick fixative that can complete its work within a period of approximately 3 to 4 minutes, and make sure to get a fixative that contains a hardener as well, as the hardener increases the hardness of the sensitive layer in the film, and helps prevent damage to your negatives.

We recommend that you use Kodak Fixer powder, Kodak Rapid Fix liquid, or Ilford Fixey liquid concentrate, all of which are mixtures of stabilizers and tonics. This is provided that you work according to the instructions that come with each product.
4- Wetting agent: This comes in the form of a concentrated liquid in bottles, and it is sufficient to store it according to the suggestions of the producing company. The rate of dilution is one in 200 with Kodak Photoflo, for example - just a few drops added to a quarter of a gallon of water.
Warning: Do not mix a stronger solution than that recommended by the manufacturer, or it may leave waste on your negatives. As for weaker solutions, there is nothing wrong with them.

Preparing for film endorsement
It will guide you later on how to prepare a dark room for all targets, but you do not need it now. This is because you can practice the process of endorsing the film - inside any room that has running water - the kitchen, bathroom, or laundry room.
You must first cover the floor with newspaper or strips of nylon if it is furnished with carpets or rugs. That is because the graphic compounds leave behind chemical smudges, and keep plenty of paper napkins at your disposal to dry your palms and tools, then you have to arrange your chemical solutions in the order on which you will use them on the basis of them, and the individual tools in a way that makes them easy to handle, finally. Before doing anything else, wash all your equipment and tools and make sure they are really clean.

Mixing chemicals:
You always have to work with the instructions of the producing company and apply them accurately. To mix the chemical compounds that come in the form of a powder, fill your container with the specified amount of water of the relevant temperature as well, then pour the powder slowly while stirring constantly. Keep stirring until all the chemical compounds are completely dissolved. If the need calls for dissolving more than one container of chemical compounds in the same solution, add them separately and in the order given in the instructions of the producing company, and you have to write the name of the compound on the gallon and the bottle.
But when the chemical compounds come in liquid form, you may have to dilute them according to the instructions of the producing company. The dilution rate may be given in the following form:
1/1 one of the chemical compound of one part of water, or one part of the chemical compound. to three parts water.

For example, you want to make 32 ounces of solution, and the rate is 1/1. In this case, you add 16 ounces of water to 16 ounces of the chemical compound, and if the rate is 1/3, you add 24 ounces of water to 8 ounces of the chemical compound.
You generally have to pour the chemical solution into your graduated container first.
Then you add the water. The exception here is the waqf bath where you have to pour the water first, and then you add 28 percent acetic acid.
And if you find that chemical compounds inflame your palms, put rubber gloves on, because many people are allergic to appearances, so do not rely on luck. Wash your palms under running water whenever they are contaminated with appearance.
Some people also find an allergy to an ingredient found in many formulations called mitol. Kodak calls methols Elon. And the cosmetics that are made with the developer agent (phenidone) instead of (metol) have less tendency to expose the skin to inflammation, so if you are sensitive to the wet, it will be a good idea when you switch to the appearance of phenidone .. It should be noted here that, phenidone is a trademark of Elford. You can find out what the theme contains by reviewing the attached list of contents.

Read the instructions. The instructions for your film usually include information about the endorsement times required when using different finishers.

- the heat :
At what temperature should you use the look? There are several tests from 65 degrees Fahrenheit - 18 degrees Celsius - to 75 Fahrenheit - 24 degrees Celsius. And you have to put your thermometer in the diluted solution and you will find that under room temperature it has a temperature of 82 degrees Fahrenheit - 22 degrees Celsius -

- the time :
If it appears at a temperature of 72 degrees Fahrenheit, the period of endorsement in a small basin - which is the type that you will usually use - is 9 minutes. And
- Stirring: The endorsement period of 9 minutes is based on moving the small basin once every 30 seconds⏹

Next lesson
Endorsement step by step

فن التصوير .. المباديء والمنهاج -١٩- تظهيرأفلام الابيض والاسود -۱-

فن التصوير .. المباديء والمنهاج -١٩- تظهيرأفلام الابيض والاسود -۱-

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