التظليل .. كتاب فن التحميض والطبع والتكبير

Shading Holding back or dodging

And by this we mean blocking the magnifier’s light with shading tools from specific areas in the image that would have appeared very narrow without details, but after blocking the magnifier’s light from it for some time of the exposure, we find that it became less dark and some details also appeared in it.

Shading can be done by hand if the area to be shaded is adjacent to the edge of the paper. A piece of cardboard can be cut in the shape of the area to be shaded. As for shading places in the middle of the image, it is preferable to do it with shading tools, as it has a long, thin wire that does not appear during shading. During shading, the shading tool or hand must be constantly moved until the shaded area merges with the rest of the image and no specific edge appears.

Burning using a punched card

Burning:

This is the opposite of shading. It is meant to overexpose the larger part of the image it was

It will appear very light. This is done by means of burning tools (a sheet of cardboard with a hole in the middle, and some photographers prefer to use two hands with a hole made between them for burning

The image in general is given the necessary amount of exposure, then the whole image is obscured except for the area to be burned, which gives it an extra exposure to make it darker, and it is always noted that the used tool or hand should be constantly moving during the exposure period until the treated area merges with the rest of the image parts. with

Shading and burning are done in the same way as with color images.

Correcting Color Casts:

The picture may have a color smear despite the good filtering of the image, for example at sunset or photographing in fluorescent light. In this case, we can get rid of these color smears in the same way as the previously mentioned colors, that is, by deleting a filter from the color complementary to the color of the smear, or adding a filter of the same color swab.

Giving an over-all Color Cast

You notice that the colors at sunset have a color tinge ranging from yellow and red to orange, which gives the picture a special warmth. We can give an image taken at a time other than this time a warm orange or cold blue hue or any color we want to change the viewer's sense of the image. This is done by adding the complementary color to the desired smear color, or by deleting a filter of the same smear color

Giving a local color cast:

We can change the colors of a part of the image by giving that part a separate exposure

different filtration. For example, a picture of a landscape in which the sky appears dull gray, which can be corrected while zooming in by giving the sky a blue color or any other color we want. It is noted that this is similar to what we do when using graduated filters during exposure (see the author's book Photography, Science and Art). To give a specific color, we add a filter of the color complementary to the desired color

Enlarging multiple negatives on one sensitive paper. Multible Printing: Here we can give free rein to your imagination and produce images that are impossible to exist in nature, or beautify landscapes by adding touches that are lacking. For example, the sky may appear empty, you can add a view of clouds in this area, or add a frame of branches and leaves. The trees. It is preferable to photograph some negatives of different and attractive cloud formations at different times to be used when necessary. This can be done for black and white images as well as color. For the image to be convincing, the direction of the shadows must be in the clouds and the ground

in one direction. Vignetting and annular burning:

You notice in some of the images produced by some professional photographers the gradual fading of the edges of the image until it reaches the edges, so we find it completely white or completely black. And the black sides you can do while shooting with the camera by placing a curtain with a large round hole in front of the lens while taking the picture. You can also do it in the dark room by shading the center of the image and burning all the edges using the burning tool. As for the white edges, we can do this in the lab only by shading the edges of the image while giving the middle of the image the usual exposure. This is done by using the perforated cardboard board that we usually use for burning. It is noted that the tool used must be constantly moved during the exposure, so that the change is gradual.
It is preferable to make white edges for images that are predominantly white, especially in the background. It is preferable to make black edges for predominantly images

list colors.

Other ideas:

Some photographers expose sensitive paper by placing a sheet of corrugated glass on it, or placing a layer of gauze under a sheet of clear glass. Special negatives like that produced by Paterson are sold for giving

What the viewer imagines is a certain texture of the image, the Texture Screen, and these negatives are placed adjacent to the required negative during the exposure.

And some photographers move a layer of nylon «such as the one from which (women's stockings) are made under the lens while enlarging the images of women. This is to give a special smoothness to the image and hide the defects. We can do this in a better way during photography by using the Diffusion Sereen light distribution filter because in the first case the colors spread Dark to light, the image becomes darker, but if the diffusion filter is used during photography, it makes the light areas spread to dark places, and thus the image becomes more light and more pleasing to the eye.

last word :

Read, think, try and let your imagination run wild... that's the whole idea!