الغسيل .. كتاب طبع وتحميض الصور الفوتوغرافية

C- Laundry:

The film has appeared now, but there are still some traces of the stabilizer on its surface that must be removed so that the film does not spoil over time if it remains stuck to it. One of the methods followed is to wash the film in running water for at least half an hour. The method used for this is to remove the tank cover, as previously mentioned, and then place it under a tap of running water, while leaving the film within its reel. This process can be accelerated by adding a hypo-clearing agent or neutralizer to the wash water. These materials are available under a variety of names and they all do the same job: reduce the time needed for excessive hippo effects on film. Another effective way to wash the film is to place the film on its reel to get rid of the film

In a tin drink container, which is used to fill carbonated water, after piercing several holes in its bottom and letting the water flow from a water faucet above it to the bottom. This container must be disposed of when rust accumulates inside it, as rust is able to easily damage the film.

Put the film inside a tin container to wash it.

D - drying:

A well-looking film can deform during the drying process if not done properly. Small spots that appear on improperly dried film are a constant source of annoyance to hobbyists. These traces arise from the remnants of evaporated water droplets on the surface of the film. These spots will appear on the layers in a sissy shape, unless they are removed. To remove these stains, a well-washed film should be placed in a working solution of a wotting agent such as Kodak photo flo 200 for 30 seconds, and a small bottle of this inexpensive liquid will suffice for an extended period of time. Remove any excess water remaining on the film after removing it from the wetting agent by passing a photographic blotting sponge, which can be purchased at photographic stores, on both sides of the film. The best way to do this work is by holding the film vertically with one hand and passing the sponge with the other hand from top to bottom and once on both sides of it. Do not press too much on the film when passing the sponge even. don't give it

Pass the sponge on both sides of the film to remove excess water from its surface

After that, the film was suspended, with the help of a clamp, to an extended rope in a place where no air currents pass, and another clamp was attached to the free end of it to act as a weight that pulls the film down to ensure that it does not twist during drying. Leave the film in this state for at least half an hour.

Hang the film to dry with a weight underneath to keep it flat.

Storage:

1- Remove any traces of dust that may have been attached to the film with the help of a soft brush made of camel hair, or by using a cleaning blower, which is a rubber ball connected to a plastic tube that releases air when pressing on the rubber ball.

Remove dust from the film using a cleaning blower.

2- Place the now dried film on a clean surface and cut it into small equal parts, each part containing 5-6 frames if the film is 35 mm. But if the film is of a larger size, it is better to cut it into parts consisting of 3 or 4 frames. 3- Put the cut parts of the film in envelopes, each part in its own envelope, as this calls for more care in preserving it.

Cut the film into strips and store them in special envelopes.

4- Record any information that may be useful to you later on the outer envelope. Such as the subject of the photo, the time it was taken, the speed and type of film, and the exposure times. He also created a classification system for these tires so that it is easy for you to refer to any tire you want easily and easily. Keep the envelopes in a cool, clean and dry place.

Write the information about the film on its envelope.