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**Ali Abbass** · 02-25-2023, 03:14 AM

Frills reduce color intensity and spots

We follow the episodes related to the frills, and we move here to reducing the color intensity and dark spots without using an engraving knife, on both negatives and prints, according to two methods, the first is physical, and the second is chemical by means of solutions.

We talked about the engraving knife and its role in removing unwanted color intensity... But here we have another method of retouching that performs the same task, apart from the engraving knife.. It can be said that they are two methods of reducing color intensity, the first is physical and depends on a diluted paste and the second is chemical And it depends on a special bleaching solution, and the method we want can be chosen according to what we will know about the accuracy and method of working in each of them.

Diluted putty

It can be called Kodak abrasive thinner (*). It is a paste-like substance that comes packaged in a glass jar. This paste is placed directly on the negative and in the location from which we want to reduce the color intensity. We work on light rubbing with this paste on the negative to get a level. desired density in the area being thinned.
There are many site uses for the thinner other than the general reduction of density, as we also use it to polish some negatives that were previously engraved with the knife before printing them to soften the effects of the engraving knife and prevent these effects from appearing in the print.
This diluent can also be used to remove the frills that we put in the pen, if we find that it did not produce the desired results. The same applies to removing deposits from the back of the negative, and all types of dirt and residue. We point out here that some people replace this diluent with a piece of chamois that they wet and then rub The negative appeared with it in order to reach the same result, but what they are ignorant of is the scratches left by the piece of chamois on the negative, which will appear clearly on the print later. Therefore, it is advisable to use diluted paste instead of chamois, especially since this diluted one will also be used to polish negatives that were distorted by scratches by means of chamois or other means. Even a diluted paste of poor quality..... Therefore, it should be ensured first that a good diluted is used, and it is the first solution to remove the color density, not the last solution after several experiments that may have led to the destruction of negativity.
When working with Kodak thinner, we will see the extent of the effect of a small amount of putty on the negative, which necessitates not to exaggerate the use of the amount of putty here. We have to use a cotton swab to apply the thinner. This method is best to reduce the density of large areas, or in both cases, the small thinner must infiltrate the negative. And on the inside of a piece of cotton, by rubbing it gently on a piece of glass, an iron plate, or any other shiny surface... The method is as follows:
We stick the negative on the retouch substrate, so that we can observe the work of the diluent, then put it directly on the sensitive layer of the negative with cotton, and start rubbing gently. When the required density level is reached, it works to remove the remnants of the diluted paste with a clean cotton ball. For somewhat negative, this can be corrected with a light wash of the negative pigment of the concerned area.

chemical diluent

It is called - Kodak Farmer Attenuator (*) and is used when it is necessary to preserve details in an area of the negative that needs to be mitigated. This attenuator is often used to reduce extreme levels of intensity in negatives whose exposure was exaggerated or exaggerated by their endorsement.
F - Kodak Farmer, it is a dual-solution diluent and ideal for working on small and large areas. By mixing parts (8) and (B) according to the instructions on the box, more solution (8) can be adopted to speed up the dilution process, and the more we add (B) solution, the more we work. We have to slow down the dilution process, and here we must emphasize knowing what we want to do and preparing everything before mixing the solution, because after the mixing process, the work with the mixture is finished before the ten-minute period ends, after that the effectiveness of the diluent will diminish, and the effect ends quickly, which necessitates replacing it with a new mixture .
With solutions (A) and (B) on hand, place the negative on the retouch substrate, the emulsion layer upwards and start by first wetting a cotton ball with plain water and wiping the entire surface of the emulsion for two or three minutes after that mix the two solutions together and make sure to wipe the dots The remaining water on the negative, and here we use a brush if we want to work on small areas, or a cotton-headed stick for large areas.
Wet the brush or the head of the stick with the mixture, and start with continuous movements while observing the wiping process as it takes its course. If I want to stop the dilution process, we work to remove the remaining mixture with another cotton ball.

Clean and moist. To continue the dilution process for a longer period, more than one cotton ball must be used. After that, we wet the whole negative with clean water, which prevents any water spots.

As is the case with the diluted putty, if we find that the dilution was exaggerated, this can be corrected by negative dyeing... But it remains always better not to exceed the reasonable limit of dilution to give the perfect result.
With the completion of the required dilution and removal of negativity from the frills substrate, we wash it with running water
for ten minutes.
After that, the negative is treated with Kodak Photo (200 Flo) solution, and then the negative is hung, waiting for it to dry.

**Ali Abbass** · 02-25-2023, 03:16 AM

frills editions

The chemical dilution process also has a role in the retouching of prints as well as the retouching of negatives. But
This method should not be used on gradient brown papers (* ). Because the bleaching process tends to change the color of the print.

Three of the most commonly used diluents are Farmer's Residue and Ordinary Homemade Bleach with Water. And a product called, Spot Off, these methods work on milled prints, which means soaking the dry print first in water for five or ten minutes, then wiping the water and placing the print face up, on a metal plate or a piece of glass or. Laxyglass. .

And when it is required to fine-tune the chemical action, the diluent must be used in a very light mixture. With the use of the Farmer’s Remover, you try to mix it in a ratio of 1/6 or 1/8 - one from solution (8) and 6 or from solution (B) - but the best results are with household bleach My dress will come from a mixture of 1/10, and here it means one of the bleaching materials with ten parts of water. This usually results in a suitable work to reduce the density on this print. Some retouchers prefer to work with three different dilutions, so that the speed of dilution can be tested according to the solution used.

And working with household bleach or a Farmer’s Remover on prints is no different from it on negatives, as we use a brush for small areas, and stick with a cotton tip for large areas, and we can prevent bleach or diluted from affecting areas in the print that we do not want to touch, by painting the concerned areas This is a rubbery material similar to glue, and there are two types of this material (Photo Maskoid) and (Liquid Frisket). These materials are wiped on the relevant area of the image. When dry, they turn into a thin insulating layer, allowing the entire print to be placed in a container containing the diluent. When the process is finished, It works to peel off these materials easily, without causing damage to the print page. We must have a container of water in front of us with cotton rollers. When we want to slow down or stop the dilution process, we wipe the water with a cotton ball, and as soon as we are satisfied with the results, it works to dry the water and dry the print. As with Farmer's Remover, Spot-Off provides controlled reduction of very dark areas and black spots on photographic prints and Spot. off as well.

It is a mixture of two solutions (AB) and can be used with any type of photographic paper on any surface, except for prints with a gradient color ... Solution (A) can be considered as an accelerating agent for dilution, while solution (B) is the opposite. A relative mixing table can be set according to the following figure One unit of solution (8) with three units of solution (B) for a slow process of dilution E Two units of solution (8) with three units of (3) for a moderate method of action E Three units of each of the two solutions for a quick result This can be doubled or reduced Any of the two solutions according to the speeds, and as is the case with the previous mixture, another brush or stick is used, and in accordance with this relative lumbar equation, according to the scale of the area that you work to lighten with spot-off, then we wash after that with plain water, and we recommend frills methods to wash the area diluted with water for about half a minute, where we put “sodium hypo sulfate … which we do not have at hand and it is necessary that the sodium be alive or fresh. We put the sodium on the bleached area for another half minute, after washing for five minutes, followed by rubbing on the area lightened by a cotton swab
damp, then we dry the print and dry it in the normal way.

And when exposed to air, it loses the spot off, after mixing its effectiveness within a short period.
If the mixture appears weak in the results during the work, it must be disposed of and replaced with a new mixture, hence the importance of covering the accelerator flask after mixing the solution. It happens that a slight change occurs in the color gradient in the area that has been treated with the solution, which causes it to lose its harmony with the rest of the print. This often happens when using “chlorobromide” papers, which have a warm color gradient. The matter is treated with a simple wash with one of the liquid sputone colors of the frills - it is possible to use ( -1 - Spotone) for brownish areas and (-2 - Spotone) for blueish areas.

Finally, the chemical thinner may cause faded spots to appear in the place where the thinner was used, and to restore the gloss to the print, the print can be re-dried on an iron plate or in a dryer for the print, or the print can be sprayed with a light layer of a special polishing substance, varnish - Example: le) Mar- gi Donald Protectacote ) ( Shall's Spray Glass
These two solutions are resorted to after the failure of the rest of the other polishing attempts.

الرتوش .. تخفيف الكثافة اللونية والبقع .. مجلة فن التصوير اللبنانية _ ع١٦

الرتوش .. تخفيف الكثافة اللونية والبقع .. مجلة فن التصوير اللبنانية _ ع١٦

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