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اللهب والألعاب النارية .. مصدر الضوء .. كيفية التقاط وتطوير الصور الملونة
FLAMES & FIREWORKS
Flames , in their various forms , from candles and bonfires to fireworks , are a special case of available light . While they usually offer very poor levels of illumination , they are themselves a fascinating visual subject . Photographing by their light normally requires taking them into account as important parts of the composition . Nevertheless , the criteria for calculating the exposure vary . If you are photographing by the light of a flame that is out of shot , the exposure will have to be much greater than if the flames themselves are the subject .
In the first case , take a direct reading , with the TTL meter , from an area of the picture away from the light source . Better still , use a handheld incident meter . If the flames are the subject , a direct reading from them will give a good , rich colour , although the surroundings may be under - exposed . One effective type of composition using flames is to position yourself so that one or more subjects are silhouetted against them . Daylight - balanced film will give a more intense red / orange colour than does the tungsten - balanced type . Because flames are not seen by most people as a normal light source , there is no point at all in attempting to colour - correct the scene by using filters . You will normally need a fast film for handheld photography , but if the circumstances allow a tripod ( if , for example , there are no people moving about in the picture ) , a slower film with a finer grain will give a better image quality .
Fireworks are a form of flames , and easy to photograph very successfully if you take certain precautions . The chief thing to remember is that the shower of a bursting firework can only be captured with a time exposure . The shorter the exposure , the smaller and less impressive it will appear . The easiest way of setting up a firework shot is to choose a lens that encompasses the entire scene - the setting ( which may include buildings in the case of a major firework display ) and the entire height reached by the rockets . Watching a few go off first will help you establish your bearings . Then , you can lock the camera in position on a tripod , and wait . As you see the rocket rise , open the shutter , and leave it open until the last remnants of the burst have died away . You can even leave the shutter open to record several overlapping bursts . The aperture setting is rarely critical : with ISO 100 film , within a stop or so of f / 4 will be fine .
LEFT The opportunity to make flames the centre of the composition should not be missed at shows and fairs .
BELOW A balance must be achieved between the exposure for the flame and its surroundings ; in this instance , flash has been used to make that compromise .
BELOW LEFT As a general rule , longer exposures result in more impressive photographs of fireworks .
BELOW , FAR LEFT Silhouetting objects against flames by exposing for the brightest light can make for dramatic images .
FLAMES & FIREWORKS
Flames , in their various forms , from candles and bonfires to fireworks , are a special case of available light . While they usually offer very poor levels of illumination , they are themselves a fascinating visual subject . Photographing by their light normally requires taking them into account as important parts of the composition . Nevertheless , the criteria for calculating the exposure vary . If you are photographing by the light of a flame that is out of shot , the exposure will have to be much greater than if the flames themselves are the subject .
In the first case , take a direct reading , with the TTL meter , from an area of the picture away from the light source . Better still , use a handheld incident meter . If the flames are the subject , a direct reading from them will give a good , rich colour , although the surroundings may be under - exposed . One effective type of composition using flames is to position yourself so that one or more subjects are silhouetted against them . Daylight - balanced film will give a more intense red / orange colour than does the tungsten - balanced type . Because flames are not seen by most people as a normal light source , there is no point at all in attempting to colour - correct the scene by using filters . You will normally need a fast film for handheld photography , but if the circumstances allow a tripod ( if , for example , there are no people moving about in the picture ) , a slower film with a finer grain will give a better image quality .
Fireworks are a form of flames , and easy to photograph very successfully if you take certain precautions . The chief thing to remember is that the shower of a bursting firework can only be captured with a time exposure . The shorter the exposure , the smaller and less impressive it will appear . The easiest way of setting up a firework shot is to choose a lens that encompasses the entire scene - the setting ( which may include buildings in the case of a major firework display ) and the entire height reached by the rockets . Watching a few go off first will help you establish your bearings . Then , you can lock the camera in position on a tripod , and wait . As you see the rocket rise , open the shutter , and leave it open until the last remnants of the burst have died away . You can even leave the shutter open to record several overlapping bursts . The aperture setting is rarely critical : with ISO 100 film , within a stop or so of f / 4 will be fine .
LEFT The opportunity to make flames the centre of the composition should not be missed at shows and fairs .
BELOW A balance must be achieved between the exposure for the flame and its surroundings ; in this instance , flash has been used to make that compromise .
BELOW LEFT As a general rule , longer exposures result in more impressive photographs of fireworks .
BELOW , FAR LEFT Silhouetting objects against flames by exposing for the brightest light can make for dramatic images .
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