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OFF - CAMERA FLASH
In any situation where you have time to work out the viewpoint and lighting , it is nearly always better to move the flash off the camera , and hold it or position it separately . This calls for a sync lead , or , in the case of a dedicated unit , an extension cable to carry connections to all the contacts . A bracket that attaches to the base of the camera can make a small improvement , but if you are taking the trouble to set up an indoor portrait , it is often worth attaching the unit to a small stand or tripod . Then , the flash can either be bounced off any large , white surface ceiling , wall , or large white card - or be diffused by aiming it through some translucent material .
With these rather more advanced lighting techniques , a portable flash unit is by no means the only type of lighting equipment to consider . If you want to concentrate on indoor photography - portraits , for instance , or still - life shots - it is worth looking at the serious alternative : mains - powered flash . At the top end of the scale , large flash units designed for professionals are heavy and expensive , but there are many smaller units that are very convenient to use . The big advantage of a mains - powered flash is that the output can be much higher than that of a portable unit , and the recycling time can be in the order of a second or two .
BELOW Off - camera flash is preferable in situations where time is available to assess both the viewpoint and the lighting . The light may either be bounced off a reflective surface or passed through a diffusing material .
ABOVE The time taken to set up a still - life like this justifies investment in mains - powered flash .
Mains - powered units work on the same general principle as a portable flash , although on a larger scale . The flash head is usually larger , and is intended to be used with some kind of fitting : bowl reflectors or screens and boxes that diffuse the light . Because they are rarely used as direct , unmodified lighting , the idea of guide numbers is not particularly useful – the illumination depends on the type of reflector or diffuser . Instead , these units are rated in terms of their electrical output , in watt - seconds , also known as joules . There is no simple way of using this rating to work out the aperture setting , but in indoor photo- graphy , most photographers who regularly use flash regularly quickly become familiar with certain lighting set - ups , for which the exposure settings are con- sistent . In any case , if you go to the trouble of investing in a mains - powered flash , it is worth also buying a flash meter .
ABOVE Busy professional photographers usually find the disadvantage of mains - powered flash units - their sheer bulk - outweighed by the advantage of very fast recycling time ( normally a second or two ) .
Basic still - life lighting
For small objects without backgrounds , a simple set that gives consistently good results can be built with a table , clamps and a smooth , flexible white surface such as formica . The white sheet propped against the wall so that it falls into a natural curve , gives an even , seamless background to the shot .
BELOW Suspending a ' window ' light directly overhead suits these Victorian dolls perfectly- their heads and bodies are clearly lit against the shadowed background , while the skirts are well illuminated by reflected light from the white surface . A lower camera angle would show less white foreground , and a higher viewpoint less of the dark background .
ABOVE The subtle variations of colour in the glass of this Roman glass bowl ( below ) were best captured by backlighting , but for texture top - lighting was also necessary . A window light was aimed at the background , but adjusted so that a little spilled on to the bowl ( above ) . As it was eventually to be printed as a cut - out , the edges of the glass could be defined by black card placed close - to .
OFF - CAMERA FLASH
In any situation where you have time to work out the viewpoint and lighting , it is nearly always better to move the flash off the camera , and hold it or position it separately . This calls for a sync lead , or , in the case of a dedicated unit , an extension cable to carry connections to all the contacts . A bracket that attaches to the base of the camera can make a small improvement , but if you are taking the trouble to set up an indoor portrait , it is often worth attaching the unit to a small stand or tripod . Then , the flash can either be bounced off any large , white surface ceiling , wall , or large white card - or be diffused by aiming it through some translucent material .
With these rather more advanced lighting techniques , a portable flash unit is by no means the only type of lighting equipment to consider . If you want to concentrate on indoor photography - portraits , for instance , or still - life shots - it is worth looking at the serious alternative : mains - powered flash . At the top end of the scale , large flash units designed for professionals are heavy and expensive , but there are many smaller units that are very convenient to use . The big advantage of a mains - powered flash is that the output can be much higher than that of a portable unit , and the recycling time can be in the order of a second or two .
BELOW Off - camera flash is preferable in situations where time is available to assess both the viewpoint and the lighting . The light may either be bounced off a reflective surface or passed through a diffusing material .
ABOVE The time taken to set up a still - life like this justifies investment in mains - powered flash .
Mains - powered units work on the same general principle as a portable flash , although on a larger scale . The flash head is usually larger , and is intended to be used with some kind of fitting : bowl reflectors or screens and boxes that diffuse the light . Because they are rarely used as direct , unmodified lighting , the idea of guide numbers is not particularly useful – the illumination depends on the type of reflector or diffuser . Instead , these units are rated in terms of their electrical output , in watt - seconds , also known as joules . There is no simple way of using this rating to work out the aperture setting , but in indoor photo- graphy , most photographers who regularly use flash regularly quickly become familiar with certain lighting set - ups , for which the exposure settings are con- sistent . In any case , if you go to the trouble of investing in a mains - powered flash , it is worth also buying a flash meter .
ABOVE Busy professional photographers usually find the disadvantage of mains - powered flash units - their sheer bulk - outweighed by the advantage of very fast recycling time ( normally a second or two ) .
Basic still - life lighting
For small objects without backgrounds , a simple set that gives consistently good results can be built with a table , clamps and a smooth , flexible white surface such as formica . The white sheet propped against the wall so that it falls into a natural curve , gives an even , seamless background to the shot .
BELOW Suspending a ' window ' light directly overhead suits these Victorian dolls perfectly- their heads and bodies are clearly lit against the shadowed background , while the skirts are well illuminated by reflected light from the white surface . A lower camera angle would show less white foreground , and a higher viewpoint less of the dark background .
ABOVE The subtle variations of colour in the glass of this Roman glass bowl ( below ) were best captured by backlighting , but for texture top - lighting was also necessary . A window light was aimed at the background , but adjusted so that a little spilled on to the bowl ( above ) . As it was eventually to be printed as a cut - out , the edges of the glass could be defined by black card placed close - to .
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