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PROCESSING EQUIPMENT
Now that colour film development has been largely standardized to two simple processes , very little darkroom equipment is needed to process your own rolls . With few exceptions , most colour films can be developed by Kodak's E - 6 process ( for slides ) or C - 41 process ( for colour negatives ) . Processes with different names from other manufacturers , such as Fuji , are basically look- alikes , and the differences are minor . The main exception is Kodachrome slide film which has its own process . The E - 6 process requires 11 steps and 7 solutions ; the C - 41 family uses 7 steps and 4 solutions . These stages determine the number of containers that you will need for mixing and storing .
The basic unit for processing film is a spiral reel tank . The tank consists of a spiral reel , onto which the film is wound , and a container with a tight - fitting lid . The lid has a central hole with a lightproof baffle for the adding and pouring out of solutions , and there is usually a small cap fitted so that the entire tank can be inverted during processing . The sturdiest tanks are made of stainless steel , and many people find this type of reel the easiest to load . An alternative is a plastic tank , with a grooved reel that is loaded by sliding the film in from the edge towards the centre . More of this later , on page 100 .
For removing the film from its cassette and loading it into the spiral - reel tank , absolute darkness is essential . The most comfortable space in which to work is a purpose - built darkroom , or at least an understairs cupboard , bathroom or utility room that can be light - proofed for occasional use . Shutters or black cloth blinds that run in deep recesses are the usual ways of dealing with windows , although it is easier to start with a windowless area , if you have one . Doors can be light - proofed with rubber draught - excluding strips , or with foam strips fitted into the frame . To check the effectiveness of the light - proofing , stay inside with the door closed for about 20 minutes , until your eyes have become dark - accustomed . If you can see no chinks of light anywhere , and cannot see your hand if you move it in front of your face , the darkness is probably sufficient . As a final check , take a short unexposed strip of fast colour film ( pull this from the end of a fresh 35mm cassette ) , and lay it out in the darkness with something solid covering a part of it . Leave it there for about a minute , and then process it . When it has been washed and dried , examine it carefully for any sign of fogging ; if there is any , it will be most obvious at the edge of the object that was on top of it .
If a darkroom is impractical , film can still be loaded and unloaded in a changing bag a double - lined black cloth bag with two arm sleeves .
ABOVE Some tanks , like the 1500 system from Jobo , accept two different reels ; in this case their 1501 reel for 35mm , 120 and 220 film , and the 1502 reel for 110 .
BELOW LEFT Converted study or office : arrange developer , stop bath and fixer trays temporarily on a protected work surface , at a distance from anything that can be harmed by chemical splashes . Use a bucket , or other splash - proof container , for carrying fixed prints to wash in the bathroom or kitchen sink .
BELOW Converted bathroom : the size of the bath determines how much of the processing sequence can be carried out on the baseboard . There are unlikely to be many available working surfaces ; here both fixative and wash are underneath the board . Bathrooms , when sizeable , are convenient because of handy washing facilities .
Other processing equipment includes graduates , clearly marked with centi- litres or cubic centimetres ( metric measurements have taken over almost totally from pints and fluid ounces ) , a thermometer , a stirring paddle to mix solutions , bottles for storing the solutions , and an effective means of maintaining the right temperature . Various brands of dish warmer are available , but a home- made alternative is a warm - water bath .
(Processing equipment)
Developing tanks are available in two basic designs - with a stainless steel reel ( 1 ) , and with a plastic reel ( 2 ) which is easier to load but less durable . Developer ( 3 ) , stop bath ( 4 ) , and fixer ( 5 ) should be kept in clearly - labelled , light - tight stoppered bottles , an even better alternative is an expanding container with a concertina shape ( 6 ) which adjusts so that air is excluded . For mixing chemicals , a graduated measuring flask ( 7 ) is essential , and to maintain them at a constant 68 ° F ( 20 ° C ) they should be placed in a tray ( 8 ) filled with water at that temperature , using a thermometer ( 9 ) . A timer ( 10 ) can be pre - set to the recommended developing and fixing times . Rubber gloves ( 11 ) prevent skin irritation from prolonged contact with the chemicals and a funnel ( 12 ) prevents spillage when returning chemicals to the bottles . A water hose ( 13 ) and filter ( 14 ) are used for washing the film , which is then hung to dry on clips ( 15 ) . Excess moisture can be removed with a pair of squeegee tongs ( 16 ) . The film is finally cut into strips with scissors ( 17 ) . Wetting agent ( 18 ) is added to the final wash to help the developer spread more easily and to prevent drying marks .
Preparing a darkroom in the home
Hardboard can be used to black out windows , with clips holding it in place .
An alternative to hardboard , roller blinds are easily available and simple to fit .
Doors can be light - proofed with foam strips or rubber draught - excluding strips inside the frame .
PROCESSING EQUIPMENT
Now that colour film development has been largely standardized to two simple processes , very little darkroom equipment is needed to process your own rolls . With few exceptions , most colour films can be developed by Kodak's E - 6 process ( for slides ) or C - 41 process ( for colour negatives ) . Processes with different names from other manufacturers , such as Fuji , are basically look- alikes , and the differences are minor . The main exception is Kodachrome slide film which has its own process . The E - 6 process requires 11 steps and 7 solutions ; the C - 41 family uses 7 steps and 4 solutions . These stages determine the number of containers that you will need for mixing and storing .
The basic unit for processing film is a spiral reel tank . The tank consists of a spiral reel , onto which the film is wound , and a container with a tight - fitting lid . The lid has a central hole with a lightproof baffle for the adding and pouring out of solutions , and there is usually a small cap fitted so that the entire tank can be inverted during processing . The sturdiest tanks are made of stainless steel , and many people find this type of reel the easiest to load . An alternative is a plastic tank , with a grooved reel that is loaded by sliding the film in from the edge towards the centre . More of this later , on page 100 .
For removing the film from its cassette and loading it into the spiral - reel tank , absolute darkness is essential . The most comfortable space in which to work is a purpose - built darkroom , or at least an understairs cupboard , bathroom or utility room that can be light - proofed for occasional use . Shutters or black cloth blinds that run in deep recesses are the usual ways of dealing with windows , although it is easier to start with a windowless area , if you have one . Doors can be light - proofed with rubber draught - excluding strips , or with foam strips fitted into the frame . To check the effectiveness of the light - proofing , stay inside with the door closed for about 20 minutes , until your eyes have become dark - accustomed . If you can see no chinks of light anywhere , and cannot see your hand if you move it in front of your face , the darkness is probably sufficient . As a final check , take a short unexposed strip of fast colour film ( pull this from the end of a fresh 35mm cassette ) , and lay it out in the darkness with something solid covering a part of it . Leave it there for about a minute , and then process it . When it has been washed and dried , examine it carefully for any sign of fogging ; if there is any , it will be most obvious at the edge of the object that was on top of it .
If a darkroom is impractical , film can still be loaded and unloaded in a changing bag a double - lined black cloth bag with two arm sleeves .
ABOVE Some tanks , like the 1500 system from Jobo , accept two different reels ; in this case their 1501 reel for 35mm , 120 and 220 film , and the 1502 reel for 110 .
BELOW LEFT Converted study or office : arrange developer , stop bath and fixer trays temporarily on a protected work surface , at a distance from anything that can be harmed by chemical splashes . Use a bucket , or other splash - proof container , for carrying fixed prints to wash in the bathroom or kitchen sink .
BELOW Converted bathroom : the size of the bath determines how much of the processing sequence can be carried out on the baseboard . There are unlikely to be many available working surfaces ; here both fixative and wash are underneath the board . Bathrooms , when sizeable , are convenient because of handy washing facilities .
Other processing equipment includes graduates , clearly marked with centi- litres or cubic centimetres ( metric measurements have taken over almost totally from pints and fluid ounces ) , a thermometer , a stirring paddle to mix solutions , bottles for storing the solutions , and an effective means of maintaining the right temperature . Various brands of dish warmer are available , but a home- made alternative is a warm - water bath .
(Processing equipment)
Developing tanks are available in two basic designs - with a stainless steel reel ( 1 ) , and with a plastic reel ( 2 ) which is easier to load but less durable . Developer ( 3 ) , stop bath ( 4 ) , and fixer ( 5 ) should be kept in clearly - labelled , light - tight stoppered bottles , an even better alternative is an expanding container with a concertina shape ( 6 ) which adjusts so that air is excluded . For mixing chemicals , a graduated measuring flask ( 7 ) is essential , and to maintain them at a constant 68 ° F ( 20 ° C ) they should be placed in a tray ( 8 ) filled with water at that temperature , using a thermometer ( 9 ) . A timer ( 10 ) can be pre - set to the recommended developing and fixing times . Rubber gloves ( 11 ) prevent skin irritation from prolonged contact with the chemicals and a funnel ( 12 ) prevents spillage when returning chemicals to the bottles . A water hose ( 13 ) and filter ( 14 ) are used for washing the film , which is then hung to dry on clips ( 15 ) . Excess moisture can be removed with a pair of squeegee tongs ( 16 ) . The film is finally cut into strips with scissors ( 17 ) . Wetting agent ( 18 ) is added to the final wash to help the developer spread more easily and to prevent drying marks .
Preparing a darkroom in the home
Hardboard can be used to black out windows , with clips holding it in place .
An alternative to hardboard , roller blinds are easily available and simple to fit .
Doors can be light - proofed with foam strips or rubber draught - excluding strips inside the frame .
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