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Using two light sources
There are times when one lamp is not enough , and you must add another light from a different direction . This may be to reveal detail in shadow areas , light one part of the picture separately , or simply to illumi- nate a larger area . The most important rule in lighting is to decide exactly what job you want each lamp to do . Never add lamps indiscriminately just to increase the light .
Always treat one lamp as your main source , and begin by selecting its best posi- tion . If it is close in , it will create strong contrast . Further back it will have a more even effect across the subject .
Filling - in shadows
Often your main lamp will reveal form and shape in the subject but create dark , empty shadows . You can fill these by placing a second lamp opposite the first . If the two lamps are the same distance from the sub- ject they will " cancel out " and give un- natural double shadows . To avoid this , " bounce " ( reflect ) the second light off white card , or diffuse it . This dims and softens the light , so that only one set of strong shadows are formed by the main lamp . You can fill - in shadows , even when working with a single lamp , by reflecting some of the light back on to the subject , as shown right .
Lighting the background
You can control the tones in the subject and the background independently of each other by using a second lamp to light the back- ground . A gray card background , placed a reasonable distance behind the subject , helps you to assess the effect of the second lamp . If the card is lit more strongly than the subject , it will appear almost white . But if the subject is lit more strongly , and the exposure adjusted accordingly , the back- ground will then appear quite dark .
Using one lamp and a reflector
The picture , left , was lit by a small floodlight about four feet ( 1.2 m ) from the figure . The strong side lighting shows the form of the figure and brings out the texture of the wall , but the shadow areas are unnaturally harsh and lack detail . These dark shadows could be reduced by using a second , weaker light source to fill - in . For the picture , below left , a large white reflector board was used to reflect back diffused light . The shadow areas were illuminated without creating conflicting shadows . The effect is less arti- ficial than the first picture and more like sunlight plus light from the sky . Notice how the lighting is still rather uneven left - to - right across the picture this could be corrected by increasing the distance of the lamp , or by printing - in ( see p . 86 ) when printing .
Controlling background lighting
Using two lamps on a subject enables you to control the lighting of your subject very accurately . For the still - life , left , two lamps and a roll of seamless paper for the background were used . The lamp on the left provided the main illumination . The one on the right lit the background independently , so that it was possible to control the background tone relative to the subject . In this way you can arrange that the lightest parts of the subject appear against the darkest part of the background and vice versa .
Eliminating shadows
The still - life above was lit by a diffused lamp above the camera . There are no hard shadows , but light tones tend to merge with the bright background .
Varying lighting distance
When you are photographing strong three dimensional shapes . using a second light source at varying distances gives complete control of tonal values . In the example shown right , the top pic- ture was lit with two equally placed floodlamps , resulting in even tone and flatness of form . For the lower picture , the distance of the right hand lamp was doubled , quartering the illumination from this side . This has darkened two faces of the cube and rounded the cone and cylinder . Placing the second lamp even further away would increase the effect .
Inverse square law
Doubling the distance between a lamp and a subject quarters the surface illumination . This " inverse square law " strictly applies only to compact , bare lamps Reflectors upset the relationship slightly . But it forms a good working guide for position- ing lights . You will meet the law again when you use extension bellows ( see p . 103 ) or calculate exposure for flash ( see p . 112 ) .
Using two lamps , bounced
For the picture above two lamps were used , both directed on to the ceiling . The result is even . soft , top lighting , similar to the quality given by a diffused domestic ceiling lamp at night . ( Flash bounced off the ceiling gives very similar results . see p . 113. ) This lighting can form dark . downward shadows . To reduce this effect you should illuminate the ceiling above the camera more than the area directly above your subject .
Using a spotlight and floodlamp
The picture below was lit by one spotlight , high and to the right of the camera , plus a photoflood from the rear left . The lighting is hard but naturalistic - you have the impression that the man is using a reading lamp in the room with other lighting . Notice how the photoflood lights the side of the head which would otherwise merge in shadow with the chair .
Using two light sources
There are times when one lamp is not enough , and you must add another light from a different direction . This may be to reveal detail in shadow areas , light one part of the picture separately , or simply to illumi- nate a larger area . The most important rule in lighting is to decide exactly what job you want each lamp to do . Never add lamps indiscriminately just to increase the light .
Always treat one lamp as your main source , and begin by selecting its best posi- tion . If it is close in , it will create strong contrast . Further back it will have a more even effect across the subject .
Filling - in shadows
Often your main lamp will reveal form and shape in the subject but create dark , empty shadows . You can fill these by placing a second lamp opposite the first . If the two lamps are the same distance from the sub- ject they will " cancel out " and give un- natural double shadows . To avoid this , " bounce " ( reflect ) the second light off white card , or diffuse it . This dims and softens the light , so that only one set of strong shadows are formed by the main lamp . You can fill - in shadows , even when working with a single lamp , by reflecting some of the light back on to the subject , as shown right .
Lighting the background
You can control the tones in the subject and the background independently of each other by using a second lamp to light the back- ground . A gray card background , placed a reasonable distance behind the subject , helps you to assess the effect of the second lamp . If the card is lit more strongly than the subject , it will appear almost white . But if the subject is lit more strongly , and the exposure adjusted accordingly , the back- ground will then appear quite dark .
Using one lamp and a reflector
The picture , left , was lit by a small floodlight about four feet ( 1.2 m ) from the figure . The strong side lighting shows the form of the figure and brings out the texture of the wall , but the shadow areas are unnaturally harsh and lack detail . These dark shadows could be reduced by using a second , weaker light source to fill - in . For the picture , below left , a large white reflector board was used to reflect back diffused light . The shadow areas were illuminated without creating conflicting shadows . The effect is less arti- ficial than the first picture and more like sunlight plus light from the sky . Notice how the lighting is still rather uneven left - to - right across the picture this could be corrected by increasing the distance of the lamp , or by printing - in ( see p . 86 ) when printing .
Controlling background lighting
Using two lamps on a subject enables you to control the lighting of your subject very accurately . For the still - life , left , two lamps and a roll of seamless paper for the background were used . The lamp on the left provided the main illumination . The one on the right lit the background independently , so that it was possible to control the background tone relative to the subject . In this way you can arrange that the lightest parts of the subject appear against the darkest part of the background and vice versa .
Eliminating shadows
The still - life above was lit by a diffused lamp above the camera . There are no hard shadows , but light tones tend to merge with the bright background .
Varying lighting distance
When you are photographing strong three dimensional shapes . using a second light source at varying distances gives complete control of tonal values . In the example shown right , the top pic- ture was lit with two equally placed floodlamps , resulting in even tone and flatness of form . For the lower picture , the distance of the right hand lamp was doubled , quartering the illumination from this side . This has darkened two faces of the cube and rounded the cone and cylinder . Placing the second lamp even further away would increase the effect .
Inverse square law
Doubling the distance between a lamp and a subject quarters the surface illumination . This " inverse square law " strictly applies only to compact , bare lamps Reflectors upset the relationship slightly . But it forms a good working guide for position- ing lights . You will meet the law again when you use extension bellows ( see p . 103 ) or calculate exposure for flash ( see p . 112 ) .
Using two lamps , bounced
For the picture above two lamps were used , both directed on to the ceiling . The result is even . soft , top lighting , similar to the quality given by a diffused domestic ceiling lamp at night . ( Flash bounced off the ceiling gives very similar results . see p . 113. ) This lighting can form dark . downward shadows . To reduce this effect you should illuminate the ceiling above the camera more than the area directly above your subject .
Using a spotlight and floodlamp
The picture below was lit by one spotlight , high and to the right of the camera , plus a photoflood from the rear left . The lighting is hard but naturalistic - you have the impression that the man is using a reading lamp in the room with other lighting . Notice how the photoflood lights the side of the head which would otherwise merge in shadow with the chair .
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