تويت
استخدام الفلاش بالخارج ..
الإضاءة ..
كتاب التصوير الفوتوغرافي المغلق
Using flash outside
Portable flash units are essential for lighting nocturnal subjects and in dark situations where there is no regular supply of electricity such as inside forests , tunnels , ruins or caves . They are also useful for arresting movement , filling in shadows and isolating a subject against a dark background . Electronic flash guns , although initially more expensive than bulbs , will ultimately prove more economical .
Versatile , portable flash guns permit you to vary the direction and angle of the flash beam and also the duration of the flash . When buying an electronic flash , find out whether it takes re chargable batteries ( more economical than disposable batteries ) and whether it can be plugged in and charged for studio use .
You will achieve better modeling of the sub ject by moving the flash off the camera , but if it has only a hot shoe flash connection , an adapter will be needed so that you can insert a flash extension lead . When I use flash for active subjects , I mount it on a hand - held camera support ( see p . 158 ) ; I can therefore move both towards the subject as a single unit . For stationary subjects I use tripods , lighting stands or simply a wooden stick topped with a ball and socket head and flash shoe connector for positioning flashes remote from the camera .
Determining the correct exposure when using flash with close - ups is not possible with conventional computerized flash guns unless a close - up sensor is attached . If the flash position and magnification are kept constant , the cor rect exposure can be determined by doing a test run of bracketed exposures . When the flash position is changed , or when multiple flashes are used , a flash meter ( see p . 160 ) is a useful aid . I often use a Polaroid back on my Hasselblad to check the exposure and the position of the shadows . Dedicated flash guns , which link up with the camera electronics , and TTL cameras , which measure the light off the film ( OTF ) plane , are not designed to be used at distances closer than two feet . However , it is possible to use these systems at close range if the flash is used remote from the camera and , if necessary , the light level is reduced with a neutral density filter .
Lighting a cave
To take this picture of beadlet sea anemones on a Icave wall , I had to wait until the sea level dropped low enough for me to wade through the cave with my camera , tripod , flash and head lamp . I used my head lamp to find the best group of sea anemones and to focus the camera on a tripod . As water constantly dripped down from the cave walls I had to make sure the flash synchronization lead stayed dry . After taking several flash pictures , I prudently retreated before the rising tide cut off the Icave entrance . Lens 55mm micro - Nikkor Mag . on film x0.08 Mag . on page × 0.2
A nocturnal light ▷ On a warm night in southern France the light of my head lamp picked out this colorful spider resting in its web . I used a pair of small flash heads mounted on a boomerang flash bracket ( see p . 158 ) to light the spider . Lens 55mm micro - Nikkor Mag . on film * 0.5 Mag . on page × 2.5
Sunlit statue ▷ I photographed this lichen encrusted statue late on a winter's afternoon as the sun was sinking behind the trees . I used two flash heads to light the statue and to synchronize them with the daylight exposure . The available light reading gave me an exposure of 1 sec at f8 . I then calculated the distance from the statue for the main Vivitar 285 flash set on one quarter power . This was 15 inches to the right of the statue . I used a Benbo tripod for this flash while my assistant held a second Vivitar 285 ( as a fill - in ) on a monopod 30 inches to the left ( as shown in the set up above ) . The result was a correctly exposed , well - lit statue and a blue sky . Lens Hasselblad 150mm + 8mm extension Mag . on film × 0.2 Mag . on page × 0.7
Boosting the light ▷ I used a flash to highlight part of a bicycle reflector so I could stop down the lens and be sure of a sharp picture at a magnification several times greater than life size . The bicycle was propped up against a garage wall and the camera set up on a tripod . I used a small clamp stand to hold a Vivitar 285 flash to one side of the reflector . Lens Leitz 50mm Photar + 55mm Hasselblad tube Mag . on film × 2.5 Mag . on page × 10
الإضاءة ..
كتاب التصوير الفوتوغرافي المغلق
Using flash outside
Portable flash units are essential for lighting nocturnal subjects and in dark situations where there is no regular supply of electricity such as inside forests , tunnels , ruins or caves . They are also useful for arresting movement , filling in shadows and isolating a subject against a dark background . Electronic flash guns , although initially more expensive than bulbs , will ultimately prove more economical .
Versatile , portable flash guns permit you to vary the direction and angle of the flash beam and also the duration of the flash . When buying an electronic flash , find out whether it takes re chargable batteries ( more economical than disposable batteries ) and whether it can be plugged in and charged for studio use .
You will achieve better modeling of the sub ject by moving the flash off the camera , but if it has only a hot shoe flash connection , an adapter will be needed so that you can insert a flash extension lead . When I use flash for active subjects , I mount it on a hand - held camera support ( see p . 158 ) ; I can therefore move both towards the subject as a single unit . For stationary subjects I use tripods , lighting stands or simply a wooden stick topped with a ball and socket head and flash shoe connector for positioning flashes remote from the camera .
Determining the correct exposure when using flash with close - ups is not possible with conventional computerized flash guns unless a close - up sensor is attached . If the flash position and magnification are kept constant , the cor rect exposure can be determined by doing a test run of bracketed exposures . When the flash position is changed , or when multiple flashes are used , a flash meter ( see p . 160 ) is a useful aid . I often use a Polaroid back on my Hasselblad to check the exposure and the position of the shadows . Dedicated flash guns , which link up with the camera electronics , and TTL cameras , which measure the light off the film ( OTF ) plane , are not designed to be used at distances closer than two feet . However , it is possible to use these systems at close range if the flash is used remote from the camera and , if necessary , the light level is reduced with a neutral density filter .
Lighting a cave
To take this picture of beadlet sea anemones on a Icave wall , I had to wait until the sea level dropped low enough for me to wade through the cave with my camera , tripod , flash and head lamp . I used my head lamp to find the best group of sea anemones and to focus the camera on a tripod . As water constantly dripped down from the cave walls I had to make sure the flash synchronization lead stayed dry . After taking several flash pictures , I prudently retreated before the rising tide cut off the Icave entrance . Lens 55mm micro - Nikkor Mag . on film x0.08 Mag . on page × 0.2
A nocturnal light ▷ On a warm night in southern France the light of my head lamp picked out this colorful spider resting in its web . I used a pair of small flash heads mounted on a boomerang flash bracket ( see p . 158 ) to light the spider . Lens 55mm micro - Nikkor Mag . on film * 0.5 Mag . on page × 2.5
Sunlit statue ▷ I photographed this lichen encrusted statue late on a winter's afternoon as the sun was sinking behind the trees . I used two flash heads to light the statue and to synchronize them with the daylight exposure . The available light reading gave me an exposure of 1 sec at f8 . I then calculated the distance from the statue for the main Vivitar 285 flash set on one quarter power . This was 15 inches to the right of the statue . I used a Benbo tripod for this flash while my assistant held a second Vivitar 285 ( as a fill - in ) on a monopod 30 inches to the left ( as shown in the set up above ) . The result was a correctly exposed , well - lit statue and a blue sky . Lens Hasselblad 150mm + 8mm extension Mag . on film × 0.2 Mag . on page × 0.7
Boosting the light ▷ I used a flash to highlight part of a bicycle reflector so I could stop down the lens and be sure of a sharp picture at a magnification several times greater than life size . The bicycle was propped up against a garage wall and the camera set up on a tripod . I used a small clamp stand to hold a Vivitar 285 flash to one side of the reflector . Lens Leitz 50mm Photar + 55mm Hasselblad tube Mag . on film × 2.5 Mag . on page × 10
تعليق