العادات والتقاليد الأجتماعية في حمص ١٠_a .. كتاب حمص

In the middle of the nineteenth century, the kandarji craftsmanship did not exist in Homs, nor did the footwear that existed: sandals, yellow babougs, and red sarami. The red sarami makers in Homs were called (Al-Zarabuliyah) and they had their own café (Al-Zarabaliyah Café), and its place is now occupied by the two (1) shops facing north, located to the west of the covered exhibition market or Al-Attarin, with the path to the east of them.

Its zarba is the sarmayya, red, shaped like a gondola, with a nose at the front with a slight curve towards the top, and no heel. What was made of it in Aleppo was that they called it an Egyptian han aqeel al-qaf jiem, and they also called it a walker. It was red or yellow in color, and its use began to decrease with the spread of foreign shoes. In the year 1280 AH = 1863 AD, she wore the kandara or:

* The qandara: a Turkish word that means a shoe. It is closed at the back and extends over the instep of the foot a little or a lot but does not rise above the ankles. It was in a black color. Some people would bend its back part and step on it with their heel and walk with it arrogantly and arrogantly.

Inside the house, a man wears a tasuma or dasuma, or a shahatah, which is a type of soft, thin shoe with an open back, without a high heel, and the man wears it to relax after work.

He may wear high wooden clogs, especially when performing ablution, in open eastern houses for fear of moisture and wetness.

As for (Zarmouzah), as the Homs pronounce it, the word is of Persian origin and was used to refer to shoes made entirely of cloth or woven wool, worn over socks for warmth, and may have a light sole.

* The clog: a piece of clothing for the feet, which is a wooden shoe located under the foot except for the leather strap that attaches it to the instep of the foot. Perhaps it was called that for the sound it makes while walking in it on the tiles, from the verb (clog), and the bride walked with it from her family’s house to her wedding house before using sal. Coquetry and coquettishness are a temptation for onlookers. One of the popular poets said that he flirts with his lover. He has many types, such as shabrawi, plain, inlaid with bone, and colored with different colors. The latter was brought from Damascus. It was made in Homs from willow and poplar wood. Their proverbs include: (Like poplar clogs, all colored Laura) is a metaphor for the delay in the situation, the corruption of matters, and the deterioration of the situation.

D - Women's clothing:

Their underwear consisted of:

1- The shantian or shahshir: It is the long garment worn by women. It was wide and wide, flowing at the top, joined to the legs at the bottom, and fastened to the waist by means of a strap that revolved around it and knotted at the back. It was made of thin fabric, and therefore it was called (sometimes thin). And comes on top of him

2- The shirt: It is called in Homs (the shalha), and it is without sleeves and has a top that almost passes over the head, and its length reaches up to the knees, and its fabric or silk, and in winter comes over it the mentian, and it was mentioned. As for cotton, the onyx clothes were varied and numerous, and differed in terms of their fabric, adornment, embellishment, embroidery, etc.

* Qiziya: A garment made of silk silk, that is, original silk, dyed with boiled pomegranate peel flour, which gives it a beautiful burgundy colour.

*Yalak: A Turkish word that means a dress that is long to the feet, narrow at the top, wide at the bottom, and has a wide opening at the chest. Added to this garment is a short, narrow bra with long sleeves and very open in a round shape. The two ends of the bra are tightened from the bottom with straps and buttons, so the waist rises and the breasts appear upward and forward! ! !

* Zebon: It is a Turkish word that means a dress that reaches below the knees, is open in the front, and is belted in the middle with ribbons. It is light and loose, made of mottled silk, or heavy, made of broadcloth, plain velvet, or blue-dyed cotton. It has many embroideries on it and has two small side openings at the bottom that are embroidered ( The customer (or women's coach) with symbolic geometric colors and themes or different floral decorations on the front and back, and the woman would wear it in her home when receiving guests in the summer in the early and evening hours.

* The following dress: made of tule: black silk fabric cut out with interwoven threads like a beehive and lined with flowers and geometric shapes wrapped with a needle and colored threads and by hand. Rich brides and women used to take out tulle dresses from their trousseau and wear them at parties and women’s occasions such as visits and weddings.

* The Jordanian dress: that is, it has two sleeves connected to the sleeves, and the slave girls used to wear it during dancing, as well as singing songs and Isharayyat. Al-Mutanabbi mentioned the Jordanian dress and said:

She came as a visitor, and the perfume did not leave her dress, and like musk on her stomach, she was suffering

Here we would like to point out that skirt in the countryside means the garment that a woman wears over her underwear. As for the city, it means: the dyer or the lathe, that is, the lower part of the woman’s dress from her waist to her feet. In most cases, one house included three generations: the grandfather, his children, and his grandchildren. Therefore, the woman was not free to leave her house and move around in the land of the house unless her head was covered and her dresses were always long. The sleeves and clothing of her dress reach up to the ankles. Therefore, it is necessary for her head to always be covered. On it she can place a “cat,” which is a thin, transparent handkerchief in the shape of a square with different colors, on which drawings of roses and blossoms are clearly printed. It may be wrapped around its circumference with perforations made from the work of a hook or needle, and it is of various types. Among them are Shurayat, Khawliyat (1), Homsi, Trabelsi, and Hamwi, depending on where it was made.

The woman believed that angels would not enter a house in which there was a woman bareheaded! ! ! Therefore, these (sweatshirts) were part of every woman’s daily dress, and some used to wear (Iraqiyya) over their clothes, like a jacket.

Some people were making “hayara” on the loom, which is a black and white fabric called “zamam” that men and women use and make clothes and shirts from.

When a woman left the house, it was necessary to wear a complete veil. In Homs, it consisted of a sheet, i.e. (the sheet) and a handkerchief. In the era of our study, the (sheet) went through three levels.

The first: the sheet (filt): It was initially a single piece of cloth, blue in color, covering the body from the top of the head to the toe of the foot. When a woman walked with it in the streets or markets, she held the two ends in front of what appeared to be part of her clothing.

The second: The sheet (Al-Zam): It consists of two parts: an upper part that covers the head, and a scarf is placed underneath it on the face, and ends with a girdle that is tightened over the second, lower section at the waist. This lower section has become similar to (Al-Dair) or (Al-Kharatha) in our days, and its length exceeds the knees to the ankles. Then it developed. The upper section was separated from the lower section, so the third floor was:

Third: Al-Fajjah (Falette): That is, it is not tied at the waist with anything, but rather tied loosely, and while walking, the woman holds both ends with one of her hands. As for the lower part, it remains as it is, like a ring or a lathe, fastened to the waist with rubber on its upper ends or with a buttonhole and a button.