التصوير الفوتوغرافي الحديث
معدات الغرفة المظلمة ..
تخطيط الغرفة المظلمة ..
مقعد كيميائي ..
CHEMICAL BENCH
The chemical bench in the average darkroom is used primarily for measuring chemicals and for mixing small quantities of solutions . Where a large volume of solution is involved , operations are best carried out in the sink so that the splashing will do no harm . The chemical bench can , therefore , be quite small and out of the way , or it can be dispensed with altogether if the developer bench is long enough . If you decide to set up a separate chemical bench , make it about the same height as the developer bench , not over four feet long and fairly narrow . A width of from eighteen to twenty - four inches should be ample for most purposes .
BENCH - TOP FINISH . Choose your bench - top material with considerable care . It must be acid and alkali resistant , it must not absorb chemicals , it must be capable of being cleaned by simple sponging and wiping , and it must not be affected by wetting for protracted periods . These are severe requirements , and few materials will meet them all satisfactorily .
A very good bench top can be made from Formica or similar material . As a matter of fact , it isn't necessary to fabricate your own bench top . Complete top with adhering Formica is sold by larger hardware and home - furnishing stores , as well as by the leading mail order houses . These tops have well - rounded front edges and splash guards at the back , so that all you need do is to buy a suitable length and add legs . However , if you prefer , you can make your bench of standard lumber and apply the Formica top yourself .
A high - grade linoleum or vinyl floor covering will also make a good bench top . The linoleum should be at least eight inches wider than the bench so you can extend it up the wall in one unbroken piece to serve as a splash guard . To prevent it from cracking at the bend , nail a strip of cove molding between bench and wall before you lay the linoleum . ( Figure 8. )
Figure 8 Run linoleum or some other bench - top material up the back of the wall for about eight inches to act as a splash guard and to keep the wall clean .
Rubber matting the kind that comes in rolls - is another good surfacing material . Apply it just as you would linoleum .
Don't have any more joints or patches in either rubber or linoleum than you can possibly help . Chemicals seep in at such joints , loosening the cement and causing the material to crumble at the edges . If you can't use one continuous strip , be sure to protect the joints with some thin metal binding strips .
Masonite and waterproof plywood may also be used in a temporary darkroom if well protected with several coats of acid - resisting paint and if the raw edges are covered by metal strips or molding . Never use ordinary plywood - the individual plies will separate when they become wet .
To protect linoleum , a good grade of wax , well rubbed in , is preferred . The wax is water repellent and will prevent corrosive solutions from penetrating and rotting away the material . For plywood , masonite , or other woods , some excellent acid and alkali resistant paints are available at photographic supply houses or the larger paint stores . The cheapest of these finishes a good asphalt - base paint . This is quite satisfactory for light wear , although not as good for heavy duty as some of the newer finishes .
معدات الغرفة المظلمة ..
تخطيط الغرفة المظلمة ..
مقعد كيميائي ..
CHEMICAL BENCH
The chemical bench in the average darkroom is used primarily for measuring chemicals and for mixing small quantities of solutions . Where a large volume of solution is involved , operations are best carried out in the sink so that the splashing will do no harm . The chemical bench can , therefore , be quite small and out of the way , or it can be dispensed with altogether if the developer bench is long enough . If you decide to set up a separate chemical bench , make it about the same height as the developer bench , not over four feet long and fairly narrow . A width of from eighteen to twenty - four inches should be ample for most purposes .
BENCH - TOP FINISH . Choose your bench - top material with considerable care . It must be acid and alkali resistant , it must not absorb chemicals , it must be capable of being cleaned by simple sponging and wiping , and it must not be affected by wetting for protracted periods . These are severe requirements , and few materials will meet them all satisfactorily .
A very good bench top can be made from Formica or similar material . As a matter of fact , it isn't necessary to fabricate your own bench top . Complete top with adhering Formica is sold by larger hardware and home - furnishing stores , as well as by the leading mail order houses . These tops have well - rounded front edges and splash guards at the back , so that all you need do is to buy a suitable length and add legs . However , if you prefer , you can make your bench of standard lumber and apply the Formica top yourself .
A high - grade linoleum or vinyl floor covering will also make a good bench top . The linoleum should be at least eight inches wider than the bench so you can extend it up the wall in one unbroken piece to serve as a splash guard . To prevent it from cracking at the bend , nail a strip of cove molding between bench and wall before you lay the linoleum . ( Figure 8. )
Figure 8 Run linoleum or some other bench - top material up the back of the wall for about eight inches to act as a splash guard and to keep the wall clean .
Rubber matting the kind that comes in rolls - is another good surfacing material . Apply it just as you would linoleum .
Don't have any more joints or patches in either rubber or linoleum than you can possibly help . Chemicals seep in at such joints , loosening the cement and causing the material to crumble at the edges . If you can't use one continuous strip , be sure to protect the joints with some thin metal binding strips .
Masonite and waterproof plywood may also be used in a temporary darkroom if well protected with several coats of acid - resisting paint and if the raw edges are covered by metal strips or molding . Never use ordinary plywood - the individual plies will separate when they become wet .
To protect linoleum , a good grade of wax , well rubbed in , is preferred . The wax is water repellent and will prevent corrosive solutions from penetrating and rotting away the material . For plywood , masonite , or other woods , some excellent acid and alkali resistant paints are available at photographic supply houses or the larger paint stores . The cheapest of these finishes a good asphalt - base paint . This is quite satisfactory for light wear , although not as good for heavy duty as some of the newer finishes .
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