تويت
التصوير الفوتوغرافي الحديث
تطوير السلبية ..
تطوير الفيلم ..
كيفية التعامل مع فيلم رول وتطويره ..
DEVELOPING THE FILM
HOW TO HANDLE AND DEVELOP ROLL FILM
You are at last ready to develop your roll of film . First , of course , you get together all your equipment and put it where it will be ready when needed . The exact arrangement will depend upon your darkroom and your own personal preferences .
Before you actually start developing the film , read the following instructions carefully and make sure you understand them . We will pause to explain the processes as we go along , but you won't have time to read and study the discussion while your film is being developed .
If you are using a dry powder developer , dissolve it in water in accordance with the instructions supplied with it ( Figure 2 ) . If you are using a concentrated liquid developer , dilute it to the proper working strength .
Next , load the exposed film into the tank . Since this must be done in the dark , it is better first to practice loading the tank in ordinary light with a spoiled roll of film . Some tanks are sold with a spare film with which to practice . When you are thoroughly acquainted with the off the light and wait two or three way to load the film into the tank , switch minutes for your eyes to become accustomed to the dark . Then look around to be sure no light is entering the room . You may have to wait until night , and then drape blankets over the doors or windows to get a reasonably safe darkroom . However , don't proceed until you have such a room , or you will be wasting your time , effort and film .
Fig . 2 Dissolving developer . Solution should be stirred vigorously while developer is added .
If you are using ordinary roll film , which has a protective paper backing , unroll the film . Then tear it loose from the paper . The film will promptly curl up into a tight roll . Let it . This will help you identify the emulsion side of the film . The emulsion side is always the inside curl .
Thirty - five millimeter film presents more of a problem . It is not possible to open a Kodak 35mm cartridge without destroying it , since the end caps are welded to the body . To open such a cartridge , it is best to use a special cartridge opening tool ( Figure 3 ) which you can obtain from your Kodak dealer , but if you have no such cartridge opener , an ordinary bottle top opener may be used instead .
Some makes of film cartridges may be opened without a tool . Hold the cartridge with the end of the central spool down , squeeze the cartridge body tightly and rap the end sharply on some flat surface such as the top of the table . This will pop off the end cap . When the cartridge is open remove the film spool ( Figure 4 ) Leave the film on the spool , but cut the end square with a pair of scissors so you can feed it into the reel of your developing tank as illustrated in Figure 5 .
Fig . 3 Removing end cap from 35mm film container .
Remove the reel from the tank and load the film onto the reel ( Figure 6 ) . As you do , handle the film by the edges only , or you may ruin some good pictures by getting fingerprints on them . Exact directions for loading a tank will depend on the kind of tank you use . To be sure it is done correctly , follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully .
Fig . 4 Removing 35mm film from container
Fig . 5 Cutting off end of 35mm film strip .
Film - tank reels are of two types . With one type you push the film into . grooves from the outside ( we call this an outside loading reel ) . In the others you fasten the film to the hub and wind it up on the reel ( we call this an inside loading reel ) .
For outside loading reels , round off the sharp corners of the film slightly with a pair of scissors . You can do this quite easily in the dark by holding your thumb over a corner , covering all but a quarter - inch of it . Then cut this quarter - inch in a curve to match the curve of your thumbnail . Round off both corners in this way and insert the trimmed end of the film into the outside groove of the reel . Be sure to load it so it will feed with the emulsion side in ( toward the center of the reel ) . Gently , but irmly , push all of the film int the reel . If it catches , back up a trifle and push again . If it persists in catching and refuses to go all the way in , remove the film and bend the first quarter - inch of the roll sharply back on itself for a second or two , and then let it straighten out . This removes some of the sharp curl which may cause the end of the film to bind in the groove . It is best to push the film a few inches past the point where it is all on the reel , since it has a tendency to unroll somewhat during subsequent processing .
Fig . 6 Loading 35mm film into film reel . Film is bowed so it slips into grooves easily ..
For inside loading reels , hold the film in your right hand by the edges , exerting a slight pressure on the edges to bow the film so it will fit between the two flanges of the reel . Pick up the reel with the left hand and fasten the end of the film , emulsion side in , to the hub of the reel the hook or clip provided for that purpose . Keeping the film bowed , simply wind it onto the reel . You will find . that the film will usually slip into the groove as it unwinds from the roll . However , keep one finger of your left hand lightly touching the back of the film where has just entered the spiral grooves . If you feel a sharp kink , it means that the film has slipped out of the groove . Unwind it past the kink , and carefully wind it back again .
Be very careful not to crease the film at any time . A sharp crease will develop a dark streak in the negative . If you get mysterious crescent moons in your pictures , this indicates you probably let the film kink or crease while you were loading it into the reel ..
Place the reel in the tank and put on the cover . Make sure it is tightly in place . Now you can turn on the white light .
The temperature of a film developer is very important , and development time is usually given for a temperature of 68 ° Fahrenheit ( abbreviated 68 ° F . ) .
Some developers are designed to work at 70 ° F. So you should check the instructions supplied with the developer you are using . In this Assignment we will assume you are using a 68 ° F. developer . Before you use the developer , check its temperature ( Figure 7 ) . If it is above 68 ° , place the developer bottle in a larger vessel and run cold water around it ; if it is below 68 ° use warm water . instead ( Figure 8 ) . When the temperature is adjusted to 68 ° , you are ready to proceed .
NOTE : NEVER ADD ICE . TO WARM DEVELOPER TO COOL IT . THE MELT ING ICE WILL DILUTE THE DEVELOPER AND REDUCE ITS STRENGTH .
Before pouring the developer into the tank , it is important that you know exactly how long you are going to develop your film . Development time depends upon the temperature , the type of film , and the developer formula . You have already adjusted the temperature to 68 ° . That leaves only the developer and the film to be considered . Printed instructions supplied with the developer and with the film you are using should tell you how . long to develop your particular film . Never start to develop a roll of film until you have this information for your specific developer and your film . Development time may vary from as little as 2 or 3 minutes to as much as a half - hour .
Fig . 7 Working temperature of developer solution is very important .
Fig . 8 If developer temperature is not correct , it may be adjusted by placing developer bottle in cold or warm water as required .
When you know the exact developing time , pour the developer quickly and smoothly . into the tank ( Figure 9 ) . For accuracy's sake , write down the exact time you add the developer . If you are using a timer , set it just as you start pouring in the developer . Since development time is figured from the moment the developer is poured into the tank until the moment it is poured out again , always pour the developer as quickly as possible . Never stop pouring until the tank is full . Be careful , however , not to splash or overflow the tank . Such splashes may result in permanent stains . The best way prevent overflowing is to mix just enough developer to fill the tank . It is also a very good idea to put the tank into a small dish or developer tray to catch any overflow .
Fig . 9 Pour developer into tank quickly but smoothly .
Fig . 10 Film must be agitated at regular intervals during process of developing .
Thoroughly agitate the developer in the tank once every 30 seconds ( Figure 10 ) . The correct agitation . procedure depends upon the tank . Some tanks have water . tight covers , and you simply turn the tank upside down and back again with a slight rotary motion . In others , a rod is provided that can be inserted into the top of the tank to engage the reel . The reel can then be twirled with the rod . In still others , an extension on top of the reel forms a handle which extends outside the tank . With tanks in which the reels can be turned , agitate by twirling the reel for five seconds out of every half minute .
WARNING : FAILURE TO AGITATE WILL RESULT IN STREAKY , MOTTLED , AND UNDERDEVELOPED NEGATIVES .
When your timer rings , or when you reach the end of the development period , pour the developer back into the bottle ( Figure 11 ) and quickly fill the tank with plain water . Most roll film developers will keep for weeks , or even months , in a cool location . So do not throw your developer away , but pour it back into an amber bottle that can be capped . Follow the instructions which came with the developer as to its further use .
Be sure to fill the tank with plain water immediately after you've poured off the developer . Agitate the tank for twenty or thirty seconds and then pour off the water . This procedure rinses . out most of the developer and prolongs the life of the fixer , the solution you will use next .
Fixing time is also important . The length of the fixing period depends upon the fixing agent . The common hypo fixer takes ten minutes when fresh , while some of the rapid fixers take only two to four minutes . Note the time , and pour the fixing solution into the tank Agitation in this solution is necessary only for the first half minute or so . During fixing , the unexposed crystals of silver bromide are dissolved , the colored anti - halation layer is bleached , and the unexposed portions of the negative become clear . If you are uncertain about fixing time , film can be examined in white light one minute after it is immersed in the fixer . You can check the rate of fixing by removing the tank lid and lifting out the reel . Check it frequently to determine when the unexposed portions of the film become clear . It is necessary to leave the film in the fixer for twice as long as it takes for this to happen .
Fig . 11 When development is completed , developer should be poured quickly back into bottle .
When fixing is complete , pour the fixer back into the bottle and store for later use . Wash the film in running water for 20 minutes . The simplest washing system is to dip a water hose into the tank , and turn the water on with just enough force to insure thorough circulation . If your tank does not have a suitable type of opening at the top , simply remove the cover and let the water run into it for 30 minutes .
The best method for washing a reel of film quickly and efficiently is through the use of a suitable film washer such as one illustrated in Figure 12 .
Hang up the film in a clean , dry location . Weight it at the bottom with a metal clip to prevent curling or swinging about while drying . Thoroughly wet the fine synthetic sponge or a piece of photo chamois and squeeze it dry . Use it to swab both sides of the film gently to remove the surface water . Take care that you do not scratch the film . Unless you remove the water drops , they will leave a residue when they evaporate , and the drying marks will show in the print .
Drying marks may also be prevented by soaking the film for a minute or two in a dilute solution of wetting agent , and then letting it drip dry . If you use a
wetting agent , be sure to obtain it from a camera dealer . Some wetting agents designed for non - photographic purposes leave residues .
The correct rate of drying is important you I want to get the most out of your negatives . Best results are obtained if roll film dries in . from 30 minutes to an hour . Two hours should be maximum . Drying film in less . time , by using heat , may damage the film and increase grain . Excessively long drying . time in a damp atmosphere will leave the emulsion soft and easily damaged . Thirty - five millimeter film dries in half the time of regular roll film . Thin - emulsion , fine - grain film dries even faster .
Fig . 12 Film is washed most effectively by use of a film washer as shown here .
While the film is drying , clean up . Too many photographers slight this important operation and run into trouble . Many developing solutions leave a sludge . This sludge won't rinse off , but is easily wiped off under running water before it has dried . Once the sludge has dried , however , is there to stay and only hard scrubbing will clean it away . For that matter , any photographic solution will leave a residue on drying , and in many cases the residue will not wash off easily after it has set .
To do a thorough cleaning job , cap all bottles tightly and hold them under running water to rinse them off . Then wipe them dry and put them away . Rinse all graduates and measuring vessels and hang them on pegs or hooks so they dry bottoms up . Swab the film - developing tank under running water with a wad of absorbent cotton to clean away the developer sludge . Then wipe it before putting it away . Clean up the developer bench by mopping it with a wet sponge . Never permit splashes of chemicals to dry on any of your working surfaces . Not only may a permanent stain result , but some of the dried chemicals will powder and float about in the air , causing trouble when they land on film or paper .
When the film is dry , take it down and cut it up into short strips to fit the protective envelopes you are using to store your negatives . Negatives should always be stored in individual glassine envelopes to protect the delicate emulsion surfaces .
تطوير السلبية ..
تطوير الفيلم ..
كيفية التعامل مع فيلم رول وتطويره ..
DEVELOPING THE FILM
HOW TO HANDLE AND DEVELOP ROLL FILM
You are at last ready to develop your roll of film . First , of course , you get together all your equipment and put it where it will be ready when needed . The exact arrangement will depend upon your darkroom and your own personal preferences .
Before you actually start developing the film , read the following instructions carefully and make sure you understand them . We will pause to explain the processes as we go along , but you won't have time to read and study the discussion while your film is being developed .
If you are using a dry powder developer , dissolve it in water in accordance with the instructions supplied with it ( Figure 2 ) . If you are using a concentrated liquid developer , dilute it to the proper working strength .
Next , load the exposed film into the tank . Since this must be done in the dark , it is better first to practice loading the tank in ordinary light with a spoiled roll of film . Some tanks are sold with a spare film with which to practice . When you are thoroughly acquainted with the off the light and wait two or three way to load the film into the tank , switch minutes for your eyes to become accustomed to the dark . Then look around to be sure no light is entering the room . You may have to wait until night , and then drape blankets over the doors or windows to get a reasonably safe darkroom . However , don't proceed until you have such a room , or you will be wasting your time , effort and film .
Fig . 2 Dissolving developer . Solution should be stirred vigorously while developer is added .
If you are using ordinary roll film , which has a protective paper backing , unroll the film . Then tear it loose from the paper . The film will promptly curl up into a tight roll . Let it . This will help you identify the emulsion side of the film . The emulsion side is always the inside curl .
Thirty - five millimeter film presents more of a problem . It is not possible to open a Kodak 35mm cartridge without destroying it , since the end caps are welded to the body . To open such a cartridge , it is best to use a special cartridge opening tool ( Figure 3 ) which you can obtain from your Kodak dealer , but if you have no such cartridge opener , an ordinary bottle top opener may be used instead .
Some makes of film cartridges may be opened without a tool . Hold the cartridge with the end of the central spool down , squeeze the cartridge body tightly and rap the end sharply on some flat surface such as the top of the table . This will pop off the end cap . When the cartridge is open remove the film spool ( Figure 4 ) Leave the film on the spool , but cut the end square with a pair of scissors so you can feed it into the reel of your developing tank as illustrated in Figure 5 .
Fig . 3 Removing end cap from 35mm film container .
Remove the reel from the tank and load the film onto the reel ( Figure 6 ) . As you do , handle the film by the edges only , or you may ruin some good pictures by getting fingerprints on them . Exact directions for loading a tank will depend on the kind of tank you use . To be sure it is done correctly , follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully .
Fig . 4 Removing 35mm film from container
Fig . 5 Cutting off end of 35mm film strip .
Film - tank reels are of two types . With one type you push the film into . grooves from the outside ( we call this an outside loading reel ) . In the others you fasten the film to the hub and wind it up on the reel ( we call this an inside loading reel ) .
For outside loading reels , round off the sharp corners of the film slightly with a pair of scissors . You can do this quite easily in the dark by holding your thumb over a corner , covering all but a quarter - inch of it . Then cut this quarter - inch in a curve to match the curve of your thumbnail . Round off both corners in this way and insert the trimmed end of the film into the outside groove of the reel . Be sure to load it so it will feed with the emulsion side in ( toward the center of the reel ) . Gently , but irmly , push all of the film int the reel . If it catches , back up a trifle and push again . If it persists in catching and refuses to go all the way in , remove the film and bend the first quarter - inch of the roll sharply back on itself for a second or two , and then let it straighten out . This removes some of the sharp curl which may cause the end of the film to bind in the groove . It is best to push the film a few inches past the point where it is all on the reel , since it has a tendency to unroll somewhat during subsequent processing .
Fig . 6 Loading 35mm film into film reel . Film is bowed so it slips into grooves easily ..
For inside loading reels , hold the film in your right hand by the edges , exerting a slight pressure on the edges to bow the film so it will fit between the two flanges of the reel . Pick up the reel with the left hand and fasten the end of the film , emulsion side in , to the hub of the reel the hook or clip provided for that purpose . Keeping the film bowed , simply wind it onto the reel . You will find . that the film will usually slip into the groove as it unwinds from the roll . However , keep one finger of your left hand lightly touching the back of the film where has just entered the spiral grooves . If you feel a sharp kink , it means that the film has slipped out of the groove . Unwind it past the kink , and carefully wind it back again .
Be very careful not to crease the film at any time . A sharp crease will develop a dark streak in the negative . If you get mysterious crescent moons in your pictures , this indicates you probably let the film kink or crease while you were loading it into the reel ..
Place the reel in the tank and put on the cover . Make sure it is tightly in place . Now you can turn on the white light .
The temperature of a film developer is very important , and development time is usually given for a temperature of 68 ° Fahrenheit ( abbreviated 68 ° F . ) .
Some developers are designed to work at 70 ° F. So you should check the instructions supplied with the developer you are using . In this Assignment we will assume you are using a 68 ° F. developer . Before you use the developer , check its temperature ( Figure 7 ) . If it is above 68 ° , place the developer bottle in a larger vessel and run cold water around it ; if it is below 68 ° use warm water . instead ( Figure 8 ) . When the temperature is adjusted to 68 ° , you are ready to proceed .
NOTE : NEVER ADD ICE . TO WARM DEVELOPER TO COOL IT . THE MELT ING ICE WILL DILUTE THE DEVELOPER AND REDUCE ITS STRENGTH .
Before pouring the developer into the tank , it is important that you know exactly how long you are going to develop your film . Development time depends upon the temperature , the type of film , and the developer formula . You have already adjusted the temperature to 68 ° . That leaves only the developer and the film to be considered . Printed instructions supplied with the developer and with the film you are using should tell you how . long to develop your particular film . Never start to develop a roll of film until you have this information for your specific developer and your film . Development time may vary from as little as 2 or 3 minutes to as much as a half - hour .
Fig . 7 Working temperature of developer solution is very important .
Fig . 8 If developer temperature is not correct , it may be adjusted by placing developer bottle in cold or warm water as required .
When you know the exact developing time , pour the developer quickly and smoothly . into the tank ( Figure 9 ) . For accuracy's sake , write down the exact time you add the developer . If you are using a timer , set it just as you start pouring in the developer . Since development time is figured from the moment the developer is poured into the tank until the moment it is poured out again , always pour the developer as quickly as possible . Never stop pouring until the tank is full . Be careful , however , not to splash or overflow the tank . Such splashes may result in permanent stains . The best way prevent overflowing is to mix just enough developer to fill the tank . It is also a very good idea to put the tank into a small dish or developer tray to catch any overflow .
Fig . 9 Pour developer into tank quickly but smoothly .
Fig . 10 Film must be agitated at regular intervals during process of developing .
Thoroughly agitate the developer in the tank once every 30 seconds ( Figure 10 ) . The correct agitation . procedure depends upon the tank . Some tanks have water . tight covers , and you simply turn the tank upside down and back again with a slight rotary motion . In others , a rod is provided that can be inserted into the top of the tank to engage the reel . The reel can then be twirled with the rod . In still others , an extension on top of the reel forms a handle which extends outside the tank . With tanks in which the reels can be turned , agitate by twirling the reel for five seconds out of every half minute .
WARNING : FAILURE TO AGITATE WILL RESULT IN STREAKY , MOTTLED , AND UNDERDEVELOPED NEGATIVES .
When your timer rings , or when you reach the end of the development period , pour the developer back into the bottle ( Figure 11 ) and quickly fill the tank with plain water . Most roll film developers will keep for weeks , or even months , in a cool location . So do not throw your developer away , but pour it back into an amber bottle that can be capped . Follow the instructions which came with the developer as to its further use .
Be sure to fill the tank with plain water immediately after you've poured off the developer . Agitate the tank for twenty or thirty seconds and then pour off the water . This procedure rinses . out most of the developer and prolongs the life of the fixer , the solution you will use next .
Fixing time is also important . The length of the fixing period depends upon the fixing agent . The common hypo fixer takes ten minutes when fresh , while some of the rapid fixers take only two to four minutes . Note the time , and pour the fixing solution into the tank Agitation in this solution is necessary only for the first half minute or so . During fixing , the unexposed crystals of silver bromide are dissolved , the colored anti - halation layer is bleached , and the unexposed portions of the negative become clear . If you are uncertain about fixing time , film can be examined in white light one minute after it is immersed in the fixer . You can check the rate of fixing by removing the tank lid and lifting out the reel . Check it frequently to determine when the unexposed portions of the film become clear . It is necessary to leave the film in the fixer for twice as long as it takes for this to happen .
Fig . 11 When development is completed , developer should be poured quickly back into bottle .
When fixing is complete , pour the fixer back into the bottle and store for later use . Wash the film in running water for 20 minutes . The simplest washing system is to dip a water hose into the tank , and turn the water on with just enough force to insure thorough circulation . If your tank does not have a suitable type of opening at the top , simply remove the cover and let the water run into it for 30 minutes .
The best method for washing a reel of film quickly and efficiently is through the use of a suitable film washer such as one illustrated in Figure 12 .
Hang up the film in a clean , dry location . Weight it at the bottom with a metal clip to prevent curling or swinging about while drying . Thoroughly wet the fine synthetic sponge or a piece of photo chamois and squeeze it dry . Use it to swab both sides of the film gently to remove the surface water . Take care that you do not scratch the film . Unless you remove the water drops , they will leave a residue when they evaporate , and the drying marks will show in the print .
Drying marks may also be prevented by soaking the film for a minute or two in a dilute solution of wetting agent , and then letting it drip dry . If you use a
wetting agent , be sure to obtain it from a camera dealer . Some wetting agents designed for non - photographic purposes leave residues .
The correct rate of drying is important you I want to get the most out of your negatives . Best results are obtained if roll film dries in . from 30 minutes to an hour . Two hours should be maximum . Drying film in less . time , by using heat , may damage the film and increase grain . Excessively long drying . time in a damp atmosphere will leave the emulsion soft and easily damaged . Thirty - five millimeter film dries in half the time of regular roll film . Thin - emulsion , fine - grain film dries even faster .
Fig . 12 Film is washed most effectively by use of a film washer as shown here .
While the film is drying , clean up . Too many photographers slight this important operation and run into trouble . Many developing solutions leave a sludge . This sludge won't rinse off , but is easily wiped off under running water before it has dried . Once the sludge has dried , however , is there to stay and only hard scrubbing will clean it away . For that matter , any photographic solution will leave a residue on drying , and in many cases the residue will not wash off easily after it has set .
To do a thorough cleaning job , cap all bottles tightly and hold them under running water to rinse them off . Then wipe them dry and put them away . Rinse all graduates and measuring vessels and hang them on pegs or hooks so they dry bottoms up . Swab the film - developing tank under running water with a wad of absorbent cotton to clean away the developer sludge . Then wipe it before putting it away . Clean up the developer bench by mopping it with a wet sponge . Never permit splashes of chemicals to dry on any of your working surfaces . Not only may a permanent stain result , but some of the dried chemicals will powder and float about in the air , causing trouble when they land on film or paper .
When the film is dry , take it down and cut it up into short strips to fit the protective envelopes you are using to store your negatives . Negatives should always be stored in individual glassine envelopes to protect the delicate emulsion surfaces .
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