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التصوير الفوتوغرافي الحديث
التعرف على كيفية التقاط الصور
TAKING PICTURES
While you are getting acquainted with your camera and before it is loaded with film , go through all the steps of taking a picture . With a simple fixed - focus camera , there is not much to it . With a more complex camera , you must usually include the following steps :
1. Getting the camera ready
2. Focusing the lens
3. Determining the correct exposure
4. Taking the picture
5. Bringing the next film into position
1. GETTING THE CAMERA READY . Just how to go about getting the camera ready cannot be covered in detail here since this depends entirely upon the camera . With the simplest box camera , there is no getting ready at all . You simply point the camera . On the other hand , if you have a press camera , getting the camera ready may be a fairly elaborate procedure . That is why we have placed so much emphasis upon reading your instruction book . It explains in detail just how you should get your particular camera ready for taking pictures .
Two little things we can mention . If your camera has a lens cap , be sure to remove it . If you are using sheet film or film packs , be sure to remove the protective slide of the film holder . These two oversights have probably lost more pictures than any other errors .
2. FOCUSING THE LENS . If your camera is of the fixed - focus type , you have no focusing problem . Just be sure your main subject is not too close . Your instruction book will tell you how close to the subject you can get without being out of focus . If you have a focusing type camera , set the footage indicator to the distance between the camera and subject . This is called focusing by scale .
Be careful about estimating your distances . It is a good idea to measure off some subjects at 6 , 15 , and 50 feet away and use them to check the accuracy of your estimations . You may be in for a surprise when you see how far off your focusing can be .
If your camera is a reflex , or if it is provided with a coupled rangefinder , read your instruction book carefully and practice focusing until you become . expert at it . Even if your camera is equipped with a rangefinder or some other means of focusing accurately , you may still find it useful occasionally to be able to judge distances accurately . You may want to take pictures at night when the light is too dim for accurate focusing . You may have to shoot in a hurry when there simply isn't time to focus in the usual way . You may want to shoot from the waist in order not to attract attention to your picture taking .
At some convenient time , measure off an exact distance ( 90 feet for men , 75 feet for women ) . Practice pacing this distance repeatedly with a fairly long , smooth stride until you can be sure of pacing it off in exactly the same number of steps each time . fairly long , ff - kneed stride a man is feet . For a woma it is likely to be about 2½ feet .
When you have your stride down pat , practice estimating short distances visually and check your estimates by pacing . It shouldn't take long to develop a surprisingly accurate sense of distance .
It is not a good idea to try to guess visually distances shorter than 8 or 10 feet . If possible , they should be paced off , or if extremely short , measured with a tape measure .
3. DETERMINING THE CORRECT EXPOSURE . The next step is to determine the exposure . You can guess at it , but you will likely waste a lot of film , particularly if it is color film which has little latitude for error . You can also use an exposure table which is a better method . It will give you excellent results for average picture taking outdoors . By far the best method , however , is to use a good exposure meter .
The subject of exposure meters is covered thoroughly in Assignment 3. For that reason we won't go into it here , except in a very general way . Exposure meters , as you are likely to use them , may be grouped into three categories : ( 1 ) Separate Meters . ( 2 ) Meters which are built into , or can be attached to the camera so that the meter pointer can be seen in the viewfinder . By setting lens aperture and shutter speed , another pointer can be made to line up with the meter needle in the viewfinder , thus indicating when the exposure setting is correct . Figures 10 . and 11. ( 3 ) Meters which are built into the camera mechanism so that when the camera is aimed at a subject , the meter automatically adjusts the lens opening or shutter speed , or both , to provide the correct exposure ( Figure 12 ) . If you have a camera with this type of meter , you simply aim it , focus , and shoot . If the subject has average light distribution , you will get a correctly exposed picture .
Figure 10 Modern 110 camera which also . prints the date , month , and year on each photo .
Figure 11 A small , light 35 mm camera with an automatic electronic shutter .
Figure 12 A high quality twin - lens reflex .
Note the qualification - average light distribution . An automatic electric - eye camera cannot think for you . It must be set by the manufacturer for average conditions . If the conditions are not average , the exposure may be wrong . Fortunately , most automatic electric - eye cameras permit the user to disengage the . automatic features so the exposure may be set manually if necessary .
4. TAKING THE PICTURE . First check to see that everything is ready . Again , if your camera has a lens cap , remove it . If you are using sheet film or film packs , be sure the film holder slide is pulled out . Every photographer , no matter how thoroughly experienced , has at one time or another failed to get a picture because he forgot to do one of these two things . If your shutter mechanism has to be cocked , make sure that this is done . Check to see that the shutter is set for the correct speed and that the lens diaphragm is set to the correct f / -stop .
Locate your subject accurately in the viewfinder . Frame it just as you want it in the finished picture . This may require considerable care . Don't try to rush matters at this point . Try a number of viewpoints or angles until you get the one that satisfies you . Experienced photographers spend more time selecting just the right camera angle than all other steps combined .
Select an angle from which the subject appears properly lighted , and in which uninteresting and distracting detail is eliminated . It is here that a knowledge of composition becomes extremely important . ( We will learn much . more about this in Assignment 8. )
Now take a good breath - not too deep - hold it easily , hold the camera steady , and trip the shutter . The secret of rock - steady , unblurred pictures is the technique you use to trip the shutter . Never push down on the exposure button this will always result in camera movement and an unsharp picture . Instead , grasp the camera so that the forefinger is on the exposure button and the thumb , or the fleshy part of the palm , is on some part of the camera opposite the exposure finger . Then slowly and carefully squeeze , don't push , against the exposure release . It is advisable not to make handheld shots at speeds slower than 1/60 second if you can avoid it - 1 / 125 second is safer . For much slower shutter speeds , it is best to use a tripod . The cable relieves the camera itself of direct contact with the pressure of your finger . If you have no cable release and your camera has a time delay shutter release , use that instead because it will trip the shutter without the need of your touching the camera itself .
5. BRING THE NEXT FILM INTO POSITION . As soon as you make an ure , immediately bring the next film into picture - taking position so you are ready for the next shot . You may have to take the next picture in a hurry . With some simple cameras , making this a regular habit will also help you avoid making a double exposure ( shooting two pictures on the same section of film ) .
التعرف على كيفية التقاط الصور
TAKING PICTURES
While you are getting acquainted with your camera and before it is loaded with film , go through all the steps of taking a picture . With a simple fixed - focus camera , there is not much to it . With a more complex camera , you must usually include the following steps :
1. Getting the camera ready
2. Focusing the lens
3. Determining the correct exposure
4. Taking the picture
5. Bringing the next film into position
1. GETTING THE CAMERA READY . Just how to go about getting the camera ready cannot be covered in detail here since this depends entirely upon the camera . With the simplest box camera , there is no getting ready at all . You simply point the camera . On the other hand , if you have a press camera , getting the camera ready may be a fairly elaborate procedure . That is why we have placed so much emphasis upon reading your instruction book . It explains in detail just how you should get your particular camera ready for taking pictures .
Two little things we can mention . If your camera has a lens cap , be sure to remove it . If you are using sheet film or film packs , be sure to remove the protective slide of the film holder . These two oversights have probably lost more pictures than any other errors .
2. FOCUSING THE LENS . If your camera is of the fixed - focus type , you have no focusing problem . Just be sure your main subject is not too close . Your instruction book will tell you how close to the subject you can get without being out of focus . If you have a focusing type camera , set the footage indicator to the distance between the camera and subject . This is called focusing by scale .
Be careful about estimating your distances . It is a good idea to measure off some subjects at 6 , 15 , and 50 feet away and use them to check the accuracy of your estimations . You may be in for a surprise when you see how far off your focusing can be .
If your camera is a reflex , or if it is provided with a coupled rangefinder , read your instruction book carefully and practice focusing until you become . expert at it . Even if your camera is equipped with a rangefinder or some other means of focusing accurately , you may still find it useful occasionally to be able to judge distances accurately . You may want to take pictures at night when the light is too dim for accurate focusing . You may have to shoot in a hurry when there simply isn't time to focus in the usual way . You may want to shoot from the waist in order not to attract attention to your picture taking .
At some convenient time , measure off an exact distance ( 90 feet for men , 75 feet for women ) . Practice pacing this distance repeatedly with a fairly long , smooth stride until you can be sure of pacing it off in exactly the same number of steps each time . fairly long , ff - kneed stride a man is feet . For a woma it is likely to be about 2½ feet .
When you have your stride down pat , practice estimating short distances visually and check your estimates by pacing . It shouldn't take long to develop a surprisingly accurate sense of distance .
It is not a good idea to try to guess visually distances shorter than 8 or 10 feet . If possible , they should be paced off , or if extremely short , measured with a tape measure .
3. DETERMINING THE CORRECT EXPOSURE . The next step is to determine the exposure . You can guess at it , but you will likely waste a lot of film , particularly if it is color film which has little latitude for error . You can also use an exposure table which is a better method . It will give you excellent results for average picture taking outdoors . By far the best method , however , is to use a good exposure meter .
The subject of exposure meters is covered thoroughly in Assignment 3. For that reason we won't go into it here , except in a very general way . Exposure meters , as you are likely to use them , may be grouped into three categories : ( 1 ) Separate Meters . ( 2 ) Meters which are built into , or can be attached to the camera so that the meter pointer can be seen in the viewfinder . By setting lens aperture and shutter speed , another pointer can be made to line up with the meter needle in the viewfinder , thus indicating when the exposure setting is correct . Figures 10 . and 11. ( 3 ) Meters which are built into the camera mechanism so that when the camera is aimed at a subject , the meter automatically adjusts the lens opening or shutter speed , or both , to provide the correct exposure ( Figure 12 ) . If you have a camera with this type of meter , you simply aim it , focus , and shoot . If the subject has average light distribution , you will get a correctly exposed picture .
Figure 10 Modern 110 camera which also . prints the date , month , and year on each photo .
Figure 11 A small , light 35 mm camera with an automatic electronic shutter .
Figure 12 A high quality twin - lens reflex .
Note the qualification - average light distribution . An automatic electric - eye camera cannot think for you . It must be set by the manufacturer for average conditions . If the conditions are not average , the exposure may be wrong . Fortunately , most automatic electric - eye cameras permit the user to disengage the . automatic features so the exposure may be set manually if necessary .
4. TAKING THE PICTURE . First check to see that everything is ready . Again , if your camera has a lens cap , remove it . If you are using sheet film or film packs , be sure the film holder slide is pulled out . Every photographer , no matter how thoroughly experienced , has at one time or another failed to get a picture because he forgot to do one of these two things . If your shutter mechanism has to be cocked , make sure that this is done . Check to see that the shutter is set for the correct speed and that the lens diaphragm is set to the correct f / -stop .
Locate your subject accurately in the viewfinder . Frame it just as you want it in the finished picture . This may require considerable care . Don't try to rush matters at this point . Try a number of viewpoints or angles until you get the one that satisfies you . Experienced photographers spend more time selecting just the right camera angle than all other steps combined .
Select an angle from which the subject appears properly lighted , and in which uninteresting and distracting detail is eliminated . It is here that a knowledge of composition becomes extremely important . ( We will learn much . more about this in Assignment 8. )
Now take a good breath - not too deep - hold it easily , hold the camera steady , and trip the shutter . The secret of rock - steady , unblurred pictures is the technique you use to trip the shutter . Never push down on the exposure button this will always result in camera movement and an unsharp picture . Instead , grasp the camera so that the forefinger is on the exposure button and the thumb , or the fleshy part of the palm , is on some part of the camera opposite the exposure finger . Then slowly and carefully squeeze , don't push , against the exposure release . It is advisable not to make handheld shots at speeds slower than 1/60 second if you can avoid it - 1 / 125 second is safer . For much slower shutter speeds , it is best to use a tripod . The cable relieves the camera itself of direct contact with the pressure of your finger . If you have no cable release and your camera has a time delay shutter release , use that instead because it will trip the shutter without the need of your touching the camera itself .
5. BRING THE NEXT FILM INTO POSITION . As soon as you make an ure , immediately bring the next film into picture - taking position so you are ready for the next shot . You may have to take the next picture in a hurry . With some simple cameras , making this a regular habit will also help you avoid making a double exposure ( shooting two pictures on the same section of film ) .
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