تويت
التصوير الفوتوغرافي الحديث
التقنيات المهنية المتقدمة ..
معدات إعادة لمس السلبية ..
RETOUCHING EQUIPMENT
The tools needed for retouching are simple and inexpensive . A fairly complete list for the student is shown in Figure 18 and listed below :
Retouching desk .
3 pencils 3H , HB , and 2B .
Sheet of fine sandpaper , emery paper or sandpaper block .
Retouching medium .
Small pieces of cotton flannel , washed rayon or other soft cloth or a paper napkin ..
Medicine dropper .
Absorbent cotton .
Etching knife .
Fine carborundum stone .
Hard Arkansas oil stone .
Fine spotting brush ( No. 0 ) .
Magnifier .
Figure 18 Equipment needed to retouch a negative .
RETOUCHING DESK . A retouching desk or stand can be purchased , but many portrait photographers have started out by making their own . Figure 19 shows an inexpensive desk that you can easily make yourself out of half - inch plywood . The opening in the desk should be as large as the largest negative you expect to handle - either 5 x 7 or 8 x 10 inches . Be sure to make the desk large enough for comfort - the tendency is usually to make it too small .
A sheet of opal glass should be fitted into the opening so that it is flush with the top surface . This will prevent the sharp edges of the glass from scratching the film while you are working on it . In addition , you will need several sheets of black opaque paper with smaller openings cut in them to serve as masks for the negatives .
Figure 19 A simple retouching desk you can make yourself .
To illuminate the opal glass , you can mount two lamp sockets permanently on the baseboard in back of the opening , or else use an inexpensive desk lamp with a flexible gooseneck and reflector . The important thing to watch is that no light reaches the front of the negative - it must all come through the negative . For that reason it should be possible to darken the room in which you do your retouching . If this cannot be done conveniently , drape black cloth around the retouching desk to shield the negative as much as possible from all extraneous light .
The strength of the light will depend on the density of the negative to be retouched ; the denser the negative , the stronger the light will need to be . The light should be just strong enough so that you can see all the gradations in the negative clearly . If it is too strong , it will obliterate the delicate half - tones ; if it is not . strong enough , the gradations in the denser parts of the negative will not be apparent . The intensity of the light can be varied by using lamps of different strength .
USE OF THE RETOUCHING DESK . The retouching desk should be placed on a table that is just high enough to allow you to rest your elbow on it while sitting upright . The position of the negative on the desk should be high enough to be easily worked upon with your elbow supported by the edge of the table .
If the opening in the desk is large enough to enable you to see the whole negative , you will find it a good plan to use a mask of opaque paper with a smaller opening . This smaller opening should be just large enough to enable you to see the face or the part on which you are working .
Place the mask on top of the negative so that the opening is over the area to be worked on , and then pin the mask to the working surface of the retouching desk . This will reduce the amount of light passing through the negative and cut down the glare . It will not only reduce eye strain , but will also serve to protect the negative from finger marks .
Sit squarely at the desk with your elbow supported and sit at such a distance . that the details in the negative can be seen clearly . Do not try to look through the negative ; look at it , and if no light is striking the top surface of the negative , all the detail in the half tones and shadows will be plainly visible .
PENCILS AND OTHER EQUIPMENT . In addition to the desk , you will need at least three pencils for retouching . The holders with removable leads are strongly recommended because they are much easier to sharpen and are always uniform in length and weight . Another advantage is that the lead can be retracted into the holder when the pencil is not in use and thus be protected from breakage .
The refill leads for the holders are made in sixteen degrees of hardness - from a very soft and very black , designated as 8B , to a lead with extreme hardness , 8H . The leads that will be found most useful to begin with are the medium leads such as 3B , 2B , B , HB , H , 2H , and 3H . The holders are not expensive . The loose leads can be purchased separately to use in the same holder . It saves time and trouble to have two or three holders with different leads , and if care is taken not to break the leads , they will last for a long time .
RETOUCHING MEDIUM . The surface of a negative is ordinarily too hard and smooth to take the pencil properly . It is usually necessary to apply a preparation known as retouching dope to give a slight " tooth " or roughness to the negative surface . As only a very small amount of retouching dope is required for any negative - usually just one or two drops - a one - ounce bottle will last a long time .
You will also need a sheet of fine sandpaper or a regular sandpaper block on which to sharpen the pencils . This is the only way to get the long , fine point that is needed .
SHARPENING THE RETOUCHING PENCILS . The first thing to do is to sharpen the pencils . This is a rather delicate operation that needs a little practice . Insert one of the leads into the holder so that about an inch and a half of the lead projects from the metal tip of the holder . Secure the lead by tightening the cap just enough to prevent the lead from slipping out . Take the holder between thumb and first and second fingers with the butt end in the hollow of the palm . Bring the sanding block to the edge of the table and holding it with the other hand , lay the entire projection of lead almost flat across the sandpaper surface . Draw the lead up and back over the surface of the sandpaper , applying only light pressure , and at the same time rotate the pencil until you work the lead down to a fairly rough point on the sandpaper block .
Now take the small square of sandpaper , fold it in half with the abrasive surface in , and pinch the fold slightly between the thumb and first finger of the left hand . Insert the pencil point between the pinched fingers ( Figure 20 ) and work the pencil smartly in and out as you rotate it slowly . In a short time the lead . will be worn away to a long , tapering point . As it grows sharper , work more slowly and carefully , easing up the pressure against the lead until you have a needle point . Nothing less will do . When the sharpening is done , blow away the lead dust , wipe the point gently , and get ready to retouch .
Figure 20 Putting the final needle - sharp point on a retouching pencil with a folded piece of fine sandpaper .
Figure 21 This is what a properly sharpened re touching pencil should look like .
The point of the lead must be as fine as you can make it , and the only way to make it so is by means of a long gradual taper . You will need to renew the point from time to time , and you should always keep it about the same length . Figure 21 shows a properly sharpened pencil .
التقنيات المهنية المتقدمة ..
معدات إعادة لمس السلبية ..
RETOUCHING EQUIPMENT
The tools needed for retouching are simple and inexpensive . A fairly complete list for the student is shown in Figure 18 and listed below :
Retouching desk .
3 pencils 3H , HB , and 2B .
Sheet of fine sandpaper , emery paper or sandpaper block .
Retouching medium .
Small pieces of cotton flannel , washed rayon or other soft cloth or a paper napkin ..
Medicine dropper .
Absorbent cotton .
Etching knife .
Fine carborundum stone .
Hard Arkansas oil stone .
Fine spotting brush ( No. 0 ) .
Magnifier .
Figure 18 Equipment needed to retouch a negative .
RETOUCHING DESK . A retouching desk or stand can be purchased , but many portrait photographers have started out by making their own . Figure 19 shows an inexpensive desk that you can easily make yourself out of half - inch plywood . The opening in the desk should be as large as the largest negative you expect to handle - either 5 x 7 or 8 x 10 inches . Be sure to make the desk large enough for comfort - the tendency is usually to make it too small .
A sheet of opal glass should be fitted into the opening so that it is flush with the top surface . This will prevent the sharp edges of the glass from scratching the film while you are working on it . In addition , you will need several sheets of black opaque paper with smaller openings cut in them to serve as masks for the negatives .
Figure 19 A simple retouching desk you can make yourself .
To illuminate the opal glass , you can mount two lamp sockets permanently on the baseboard in back of the opening , or else use an inexpensive desk lamp with a flexible gooseneck and reflector . The important thing to watch is that no light reaches the front of the negative - it must all come through the negative . For that reason it should be possible to darken the room in which you do your retouching . If this cannot be done conveniently , drape black cloth around the retouching desk to shield the negative as much as possible from all extraneous light .
The strength of the light will depend on the density of the negative to be retouched ; the denser the negative , the stronger the light will need to be . The light should be just strong enough so that you can see all the gradations in the negative clearly . If it is too strong , it will obliterate the delicate half - tones ; if it is not . strong enough , the gradations in the denser parts of the negative will not be apparent . The intensity of the light can be varied by using lamps of different strength .
USE OF THE RETOUCHING DESK . The retouching desk should be placed on a table that is just high enough to allow you to rest your elbow on it while sitting upright . The position of the negative on the desk should be high enough to be easily worked upon with your elbow supported by the edge of the table .
If the opening in the desk is large enough to enable you to see the whole negative , you will find it a good plan to use a mask of opaque paper with a smaller opening . This smaller opening should be just large enough to enable you to see the face or the part on which you are working .
Place the mask on top of the negative so that the opening is over the area to be worked on , and then pin the mask to the working surface of the retouching desk . This will reduce the amount of light passing through the negative and cut down the glare . It will not only reduce eye strain , but will also serve to protect the negative from finger marks .
Sit squarely at the desk with your elbow supported and sit at such a distance . that the details in the negative can be seen clearly . Do not try to look through the negative ; look at it , and if no light is striking the top surface of the negative , all the detail in the half tones and shadows will be plainly visible .
PENCILS AND OTHER EQUIPMENT . In addition to the desk , you will need at least three pencils for retouching . The holders with removable leads are strongly recommended because they are much easier to sharpen and are always uniform in length and weight . Another advantage is that the lead can be retracted into the holder when the pencil is not in use and thus be protected from breakage .
The refill leads for the holders are made in sixteen degrees of hardness - from a very soft and very black , designated as 8B , to a lead with extreme hardness , 8H . The leads that will be found most useful to begin with are the medium leads such as 3B , 2B , B , HB , H , 2H , and 3H . The holders are not expensive . The loose leads can be purchased separately to use in the same holder . It saves time and trouble to have two or three holders with different leads , and if care is taken not to break the leads , they will last for a long time .
RETOUCHING MEDIUM . The surface of a negative is ordinarily too hard and smooth to take the pencil properly . It is usually necessary to apply a preparation known as retouching dope to give a slight " tooth " or roughness to the negative surface . As only a very small amount of retouching dope is required for any negative - usually just one or two drops - a one - ounce bottle will last a long time .
You will also need a sheet of fine sandpaper or a regular sandpaper block on which to sharpen the pencils . This is the only way to get the long , fine point that is needed .
SHARPENING THE RETOUCHING PENCILS . The first thing to do is to sharpen the pencils . This is a rather delicate operation that needs a little practice . Insert one of the leads into the holder so that about an inch and a half of the lead projects from the metal tip of the holder . Secure the lead by tightening the cap just enough to prevent the lead from slipping out . Take the holder between thumb and first and second fingers with the butt end in the hollow of the palm . Bring the sanding block to the edge of the table and holding it with the other hand , lay the entire projection of lead almost flat across the sandpaper surface . Draw the lead up and back over the surface of the sandpaper , applying only light pressure , and at the same time rotate the pencil until you work the lead down to a fairly rough point on the sandpaper block .
Now take the small square of sandpaper , fold it in half with the abrasive surface in , and pinch the fold slightly between the thumb and first finger of the left hand . Insert the pencil point between the pinched fingers ( Figure 20 ) and work the pencil smartly in and out as you rotate it slowly . In a short time the lead . will be worn away to a long , tapering point . As it grows sharper , work more slowly and carefully , easing up the pressure against the lead until you have a needle point . Nothing less will do . When the sharpening is done , blow away the lead dust , wipe the point gently , and get ready to retouch .
Figure 20 Putting the final needle - sharp point on a retouching pencil with a folded piece of fine sandpaper .
Figure 21 This is what a properly sharpened re touching pencil should look like .
The point of the lead must be as fine as you can make it , and the only way to make it so is by means of a long gradual taper . You will need to renew the point from time to time , and you should always keep it about the same length . Figure 21 shows a properly sharpened pencil .
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