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How to make a passport photo of yourself

Going to the studio and taking pictures of identity cards or passports is annoying to many. So we give the photographer here a detailed explanation of how to capture these
The pictures themselves, to get rid of the worries of awkward sitting in front of other people's lenses.

Aside from the snapshots that are taken of suspects for driving licenses, the passport usually contains the most depressing facial image that any person has for himself, or at least among the facial images that he is forced to show to others from time to time. The image in question does not have to be like that. . Unlike most other identification photos, you can take a passport photo yourself, and the requirements are simple. General Security wants a good likeness of you, and you want a photo that officials don't stare suspiciously at.

From here, when you create the image yourself, you can capture the entire 36-frame roll, and then choose
The ones you consider the best you own. Add to this that you save some money, and we avoid the hassle of making an appointment and moving to and from the studio, as you arrange things to make additional prints later.
Here you only need a little more than basic camera equipment, modest information about black and white endorsement and enlargement, and then the possibility of entering a dark room in which your passport photos are made.

Requirements:
Do not deal with passport photos as an exercise in making creative vector images, because officials in the immigration and public security departments are interested in exciting images and lighting that resembles the lighting of luxurious water verses paintings. The picture is to represent you in the best possible way. If you are going to travel with short hair, contact lenses and a shaved chin, do not take a picture of yourself with long hair, wearing regular glasses and having a beard. But if you are traveling with your glasses on your eyes, then the lenses in the picture should not be dark. Also, the image should not get frills that change your appearance.

Method:
For the shoot first all you need is a solid white room or light colored wall and a backless chair, a good 35mm camera with a self-timer or an adjustable one and a regular 50mm lens will be fine, although a mild telefono lens, a wire pickup and an adjustable flash unit will do the trick like that .
We point out here that subtraction and texture - horizontal or vertical - are not particularly important because the final image will be small - usually 2 x 3 inches and easy to subtract from a vertical or horizontal negative without significantly affecting its quality.
However, sharp and accurate focus is important, from here you have to either measure the distance from the film plane to the eye plane, or use the model of a friend who sits in your place on the backless seat while you focus the lens.
The flash can be a bounce or direct flash, so if you choose to work with a direct flash, it may help to use it from a fairly high angle to throw shadows behind and under you and keep the background clean.

As for your choice of film, it is not a matter of such great importance because of the very small scale of the enlargement, and the fact that it may be more appropriate sometimes to practice capture when you have it put the remaining frames from the language of a film that you previously used for another purpose. Travel only.
Set up the self-pickup timer or ask a friend to operate the pickup cord. Sit up properly, smile, take a few frames and then your movie looks normal.
Choosing paper is an issue in which there is some importance, in contrast to the case with choosing film. So work with a mono-weight, fibrous base paper, and print for normal color contrast, for example, the print (FPI - 2, Agfa Gevaert Rapido) and the use of this paper comes in the first degree because it agrees with the requirements of the weight and the base if it is available to you.
This, and since the 2 x 2 print is small to work with, the photos can be printed on a sheet of 1/2 3 x 5 inches, then cut to the desired size after development. As for printing, it has been simplified to some extent. A printing mask of 1/2 3 x 5 inches with a 2 x 2 inch hole in the middle is made from a piece of matte black cardboard. Glue the mask like a hinge on a 3" x 5" piece of white cardboard with a 2" x 2" raised parallel to the hole in the mask.

Draw a circle with a diameter of 1 1/4 inch - a radius of 5/8 inch - within the bounds of the square on the whiteboard.
The center of the circle should be equidistant - one inch - from the sides of the square and 7/8 inch from the top of the square.

The completed hinged mask can be affixed to the base plate of the enlarger or placed in a print holder. Now arrange the picture so that, from the bottom of the chin to the top of the head, including the hair, it falls within the 1 1/4 inch circle. Slide a scrap of copy paper into the mask to make the fine adjustment of focus. Make a test slide, then make as many prints as you want⏹