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An informative leaflet from ILFORD How to Develop Your Black and White Films

From time to time, the Ford company works to issue educational bulletins for those interested, and these bulletins are requested from all centers selling (ILFORD) products. Here we present the most important information in the latest bulletin issued in this field.

1- Your dark room must be completely darkened - if it is a kitchen, bathroom or closet - by preventing light from penetrating into it.
As for the windows, you use cardboard panels that you cut according to the required shape and fix them in place with adhesive tape, and for the doors, you use tape, and then after you finish with black cloth to seal that, you spend five minutes in this dark room to make sure that it is sealed against light infiltration already .
2- Put the relevant materials in a logical order, and where you will be able to find them in the dark. It is worth noting that you will only need those things concerned with removing the film from the cassette and inserting it into the (Tank) that is well endorsed against light penetration.

3- Take the cassette and the opener, turn off the light, then lift the cassette cap from it and pull the film reel slightly outward. Now find the beginning end of the film, then slide this end through the light-trap hole and slide the reel back to its place.
4- Pull the entire beginning end outward, the lips of the cassette, then hold this cassette so that the tips of your fingers are far from the path of the scissors, and cut the beginning end - this is provided that you try to cut between the holes of the reel if you can.
E - Take the spiral and find the projecting lugs that indicate the entry point of the film. Put these in a row facing you. Then grab the end of the film and pull an inch or two into the first channel between the lugs, then pull about a foot of film out of the cassette. It is worth noting that rotating the sides of the reel forward and backward will wrap this film inside the spiral.
6- Continue until you reach the end of the film and cut it from the cassette reel, then adopt a few additional languages ​​to insert it completely into the screw. In the end, place the coil in the endorsement basin, along with its plastic sealing ring - if needed. Then close the lid of the tub. Spiral film is now contained within the container, sealed against light infiltration, so that you can return to light the room.

7- Pour exactly 40 milliliters of (2 ILFOSOL) into the calibration container. The necessary dilution here is 1 solution + 9 water. The temperature of this amount in the water should be approximately 23 degrees Celsius, which means that you mix hot and cold water together until it reaches this Class .
8- Start the endorsement. The endorsement solution is poured smoothly, but as quickly as possible into the basin, then start.
Turn on the timer as soon as you finish pouring.
9 - Attach the sealing cap and move the basin upside down four times, once every minute for a period of time
Endorsement, in order to move this appearance, and whenever you turn the trough, you tap it on the table to get rid of any air bubbles that may arise on the film, and there are troughs moved by the contagious roll.
10 - The film (4 FP) needs four minutes in Alfosol 1 + 9. Therefore, 15 seconds before the four minutes have elapsed, you start pouring the developer out of the basin. It is a developer solution that will not be used once. So that you can pour it in until four minutes have passed, as soon as you finish pouring the appearance out of the basin.
11- While the waqf bath solution is at a temperature of 20 degrees Celsius, pour it into the basin. Then stir this solution by turning the tub upside down twice, and pour it out of the tub after about ten seconds. Set the timer to zero, and pour the stabilizing solution - also at a temperature of 20 minutes Celsius - into the basin, turning the clock on when the pouring is over. Then move as you did during the endorsement until the installation is complete, and this takes two minutes, after that you pour the stabilizer into a preservation bottle.
12- The film is now installed and you can lift the basin cover. And if you have running water. Use a rubber tube to push this water down the center of the spiral at the bottom of the basin. Wash the film with running water like this from 5 to 10 minutes.
13- Add one drop of phenol wetting agent (ILFOTOL) to the final wash water and stir for a while, push the film screw into the tub. Pull the end of the film out of the coil. And hang it with wooden or plastic film clips. You may need to fold one side of the film over each other so that the tweezers hold two layers of it like this.
14- The film was suspended from a rod, nail, or wire, which should be approximately six feet off the ground. Slowly, its roll is loosened outwards from the screw septa, refer to the next step. This and to get rid of any excess water, work carefully and carefully to release the tongue of a rubber squeegee with two clean fingers down the length of the film - any grains on the medium used here will scratch the whole film -

15- Hang a heavy-weight tweezer at the lower end of the film, then let it dry in a quiet, calm, dust-free atmosphere. You can speed up the drying process by using a blow-dryer. It works lightly and keeps it moving, about a foot away from the glossy page of the film. 16- After the film has dried. Check its negatives. The edges of the film should be clear and transparent with legible frame numbers at the bottom. Negatives with good exposure and development should be characterized by a full range of color gradations, in which some parts are almost transparent as the edges, and other parts are very dense.
17- Counting the negatives: A 36-take film may produce 37 or 38 images. The best way to save them is in archive slides that contain one or six clips from six negatives.
You may be able to get rid of a blank or underexposed shot while cropping. Date and title the archive slide right away, so it's ready to make prints.
So, developing the film is an easy process. It is enough to act carefully according to the mentioned instructions, step by step, as it is almost certain that you will succeed from the first time. However, despite this, it is not recommended to start developing an important film for a wedding, for example, or pictures of a trip that cannot be repeated.
The hardest part of the development process is getting the film into the screw.
So that grooves. Films - The screw holds different parts of the film far from each other so that the endorsement can rotate freely.
So start by training to install the film under the light of day, using old or unnecessary film for that until you are able to hang it easily. Then practice it with your eyes closed before you finally try to do it in the dark and with a real movie.
Put only enough of the developer to develop one film at a time, and after using this amount, you pour it out and dispose of it in the water drain, provided that you can mix larger quantities in the stop bath, and it is proven that these chemical compounds can be kept in storage bottles and returned to use again - this Make sure to adhere to the attached instructions.
Once you have finished developing the 4 FP medium speed film, you can use the same equipment, chemical compounds and methods to develop any other films.
Using different looks with these same films allows you to change the results to suit your preferences. In this field, Thani Alford (ID-11), PERCEPTOL, and MICROPHEN are all provided in the form of powders instead of concentrated liquids, and they should be dissolved before use⏹